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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Zlomisková věž
From the south, into the chimney between the tower and the massif to the wedged boulder.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zlomisková věž
To the right of the 'Nudle' (Noodle) route, via a short crack, higher up the edge (ring)… Rock Climbing
5+
Zlomisková věž
From the fore-rock on the South face, via a crack (ring) and up the wall below an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Zlomisková věž
Right on the valley side, from the fore-rock, up the wall over a ring to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zlomisková věž
Right on the valley wall, via a chimney to the pillar, and like the 'South Face' to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zlomisková věž
From the boulder below the South face, step into a crack and follow it to a small… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zlomisková věž
From the south, traverse right and up the valley wall over 3 rings below an overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Zlomisková věž
In the left part of the valley wall, via a gully and up the wall to the first BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Zlomisková věž
On the North face, via a crack over an overhang and right to the 1st ring. Right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Zlomisková věž
From the 2nd ring of the 'Loutka, Bidlo, Tráva' (Puppet, Pole, Grass) route, directly up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zlomisková věž
Up the chimney on the North face to the 1st ring. Step right onto the edge and follow it… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Zlomisková věž
In the left part of the North face, diagonally right to the 1st ring. Directly up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zlomisková věž
From the 2nd ring of the 'Boží dopuštění' (Divine Providence) route, along the edge over… Rock Climbing
5+
Zlomisková věž
From the south, via the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up by a wide… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zlomisková stěna
From the 2nd BH of the route 'Swine Flu' along the edge of the overhang and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Zlomisková stěna
In the right valley face, in the left part, from a higher terrace through the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zlomisková stěna
To the right of the route 'Lost IN' up a small wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zlomyslná stěna
To the right of the route 'Hrubáš' at the edge along the crack to the 1st BH, up over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Zlomyslná stěna
Through the middle of the left face from the valley over 4 BH left to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Konec světa
Completely on the right of the massif, up the SE wall via BH to the rappel point. (see… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Konec světa
In the S part of the massif from the large cave, left up the wall, further right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Konec světa
In the left part of the wall near the edge, via 3 BH to the balcony (loop), directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Cross
Via the roof above the stream directly over the bolt and through the crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Malá růžová
Up the chimney to the 3rd bolt of the Route 66 and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
10-/10
Zajíc
To the right of the route “Wild Rabbit” over 2 BH to the 3rd K of the route “Wild Rabbit”… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Zajíc
Through the middle of the NW face over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zajíc
To the right in the S face via a crack below a small overhang to K. Over it and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zajíc
In the valley face over the overhang to K. Via the face to the 2nd K and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zajíc
Completely to the right on the NW side via the face to the 1st K. Along the edge below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Zajíc
To the right of the Harmonic route via an overhanging edge directly to the summit and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger

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