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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Múza
Through the middle of the North face (3 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Múza
In the North face, to the right of the chimney, directly along the edge (2 BH) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Múza
In the left part of the North wall, through the narrowing chimney to the rappel station. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Múza
In the left part of the North face (2BH) from the right to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Svazek
Through the valley wall (2BH) to rappel down the Cibulka's lists route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8+/9-
Varhany
To the right in the W wall (3BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8+/9-
Svazek
Up the center of the valley wall via the blunt edge and from the left into the ledge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Varhany
Up the center of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
8-/8
Varhany
Along the NW edge (2 BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Varhany
Up the center of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
9/9+
Mikrospánek
In the center of the wall, up the overhanging small wall diagonally left (2 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Varhany
In the W wall to the right of the crack, along the edge to BH and directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Kaplička
To the left in the N wall along the crack to the rappel point or through the tunnel to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Mikrospánek
To the left up the double crack and the wall (BH), then diagonally right to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Brut
To the right of the PF 2020 route, up the slabby wall via the 2nd BH directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Věž Rudolfa Hankeho
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Brut
From the balcony to the right of the 'Zázrak' route, up the center of the narrow pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Brut
From the lowest point of the valley wall, ascend the pillar via 6 BH to the summit. See… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Brut
In the left part of the massif, to the right of the prominent crack, briefly via a narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Brut
In the left part of the massif, in the fall line of the wide crack, directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Brut
In the north face, directly along the edge over 2 BHs to the rappel point of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Brut
In the left part of the massif, to the right of the north edge, via a narrow gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Brut
From the 1st BH of the Bouldering route from the left via BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9/9+
Žížův masiv
Left of "Swallowing Angels" up the wall directly over the crack and two BHs into a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Děčínská věž
From the left edge in the crack, traverse right and over the overhang via 2nd BH to 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Služebna
Completely to the right of the massif, along the edge and through a crack to a ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Služebna
In the right part of the massif, via a prominent crack to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Služebna
In the right part of the massif, through the center of a narrow wall directly over two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Služebna
In the south face, through a short crack, higher up the wall over a BH to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Služebna
In the right part of the massif, a corner crack 3rd BH and higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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