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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Myslivecká věž
Like the 'Údolní spára' (Valley Crack) route, traverse into the middle of the west wall.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Myslivecká věž
In the middle of the plateau wall about 2m up, to the right into a small rib and via it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Myslivecká věž
Along the ledge in the west wall, traverse left into the valley wall and up the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Myslivecká věž
From the start of the 'Náhorní cesta' (Plateau Route), diagonally left to the SW edge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Vlkouší stěna
Up the narrow west wall, first along the overhanging edge (2 bolts) to the 3rd bolt. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Myslivecká věž
To the right in the plateau wall, up a short wall to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7/7+
Vlkouší stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall, from a ledge along a small crack (loop) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Vlkouší stěna
Via the La Nariz del Diablo route to the 1st bolt. Right over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Vlkouší stěna
To the right on the valley side, up the wall past 2 bolts and a bolt to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Vlkouší stěna
About 2 m to the left of the start of the Bronzový poklad route, up the wall past 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Vlkouší stěna
About 3.5 m to the right of the start of the La Nariz del Diablo route, up the wall past… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Vlkouší stěna
Via the left valley edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Vlkouší stěna
Via the narrow left East pillar over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Zálesák
Up the wall right of the route Kouzelná chata (Magic Cabin) over 4 BH and then left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Zálesák
Right part of the overhanging wall between the cracks over 4 BH to the abseil K (bolt). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Zálesák
Up the iron-rich wall, right of the route Frkot v kisně, over 3 BH and through the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Zálesák
Up the middle of the wall via a small corner/sokolik over, overhang (2 BH), corner (3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Chiricahuas
From the E balcony, in the fall line of the K route Větrná cesta (Windy Route), up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Zálesák
Left part of the overhanging wall over the overhang (4 BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Chiricahuas
In the north face, up the slab over K and directly to the balcony. Up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Chiricahuas
Left of the New North Route, up the wall to the left to the edge (K). Over the step and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Chiricahuas
Through the chimney between the wall and Tomahowks to the bolt. Up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Holubník
From the start of the 'Old Route' via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Holubník
Middle of the plateau wall, then right over an overhang and crack to the ledge. Small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7/7+
Holubník
Left of the 'Plateau Route' via a wall to a shelf and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Holubník
From the saddle through a corner to the adjacent massif, traverse to the NW edge of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Holubník
SW edge and right wall to K. Wall to the ledge and left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Holubník
From the NE edge along the ledge left and through the middle of the valley wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Holubník
S wall diagonally right to the edge and briefly up it to the ledge of the 'Old Route'.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Holubník
Along the Valley Route to the ledge of the Old Route. Directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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