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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Holubník
From the gully between Holubník and Assiniboin diagonally left up the S wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Holubník
From the saddle between Holubník and Holoubet briefly up the chimney, S wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Assiniboin
From the balcony on the W side, obliquely right along the wall to K. Traverse about 2 m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Assiniboin
From K of the route "When trees run out of breath", up the wall slightly left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Vémola
In the north wall from the right up the overhanging wall (2 BH) and distinctly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Zelený agent
In the right part of the northwest wall via a crack and wall with 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Děčínská žula
From the 1st BH of the route 'Red Zone', traverse right to the 2nd BH. Briefly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9/9+
Děčínská žula
To the right of the 'Hard Grit' route from the stone diagonally right (2 BH), then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9/9+
Děčínská žula
Through the middle of the valley wall (6 BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
8-/8
Děčínská žula
In the left part of the massif from the terrace to the right of Seismograf, directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Děčínská žula
Completely in the left part of the massif, from the last upper terrace, up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Seismograf
In the right part of the massif, on the south face, from the high terrace near Děčín… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Seismograf
In the south face via a broken crack to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Seismograf
In the right part of the valley wall, to the right of the corner, diagonally left (1st BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8+/9-
Kožíšek
Middle of the N wall over BH directly to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Ztráta času
To the right of the start of the Teplá zima route, wall over 3 BH and edge to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Čihadlo
SE edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Overhang
7+/8-
Visuté zahrady
Wall to the right of the Green Racist route over bh directly to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Země zázraků
In the right part of the wall, to the right beyond the edge of the 'Life after life'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Země zázraků
Along the right edge, the right part of the massif over the bolt for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Země zázraků
In the left part of the right massif, up the wall over 2 bolts and from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Země zázraků
From the 3rd bolt of the "Wonderland" route, directly up the wall over 2 bolts and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Země zázraků
In the middle of the wall over 2 bolts, diagonally right over the 3rd bolt to the 4th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Země zázraků
In the right part of the left wall, a prominent crack (1 bolt) to the 4th bolt of the "So… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Země zázraků
To the left of the 'Shot Goose' route, up cracks (loops) to the bolt and further up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Země zázraků
To the right of the Posazení route, directly up the wall over 4 bolts for rappelling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Podskalák
From the saddle, left by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Podskalák
In the middle of the upper wall, over the overhang and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Podskalák
From the start of the 'Left Gully' to the ledge, traverse left to the balcony and by the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
?
Podskalák
To the left from the massif, descent to the overgrown balcony of the Upper Route. Jump to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay

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