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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Podskalák
In the massif, diagonally down to a small balcony, briefly down the chimney and then… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Podskalák
In the middle of the massif, from the block by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
?
Podskalák
Completely to the right from the massif, descent to the pinnacle. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Podskalák
To the right in the SW wall, by cracks into the gully and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Podskalák
To the right in the SW wall, by crack to its end. To the right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Podskalák
From the saddle in the wall of the massif upwards, higher by opposition chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Podskalák
From the start of the path "Pravý žlábek" (Right Gully) to the right along the traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Podskalák
To the right in the valley wall, along the wall and by crack to the balcony and straight… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Podskalák
By the left valley edge to the ledge and by "Žlutou spárou" (Yellow crack) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Podskalák
In the middle of the valley wall, along the wall and by crack over K to the balcony. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Podskalák
By the west wall and crack to the balcony. "Starou cestou" (Old path) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Podskalák
Completely to the left in the upper wall (left of the saddle) by oblique crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Pyramida
Via the Valley of Kings route to the 2nd BH and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pyramida
To the right in the valley wall from the left via 2 BH to the ring of the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pyramida
From the fore-peak, a jump to the ledge for abseiling. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pyramida
As the Valley Route, via the corner to the end and right to K. Right behind the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pyramida
Through the opposing chimney to the balcony and via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Pyramida
To the left of the valley side via the corner to the balcony, up the wall via BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pyramida
As the Valley Route to BH and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pyramida
From W via the fore-peak, descent and traverse over the chimney and a short wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Pyramida
Via the uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pyramida
Via the S edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Páteř
In the middle of the SE wall, via crack and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Páteř
From the platform in the right part of the S wall, by a slab wall into the hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Páteř
Left in the S wall via BH to the block under the overhang, over the overhang and block to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Páteř
From the start of the SE crack, right through the chimney to the balcony. Further along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Jelení věž
From the saddle to the right onto the S edge and along it to the plateau. Further by the … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Jelení věž
From the SW edge traverse along the ledge right into the middle of the S wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7+/8-
Jelení věž
From the bolt (BH) of the route 'Songs Away from People' slightly from the right, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Jelení věž
To the left on the NW side from the short crack by wall to the bolt (BH). Left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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