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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Jelení věž
By corner in the valley wall under the overhang, step right and by double crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jelení věž
To the right in the NW wall by small gully and edge under the overhang. Above it by wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Jelení věž
By corner crack in the upland wall to the plateau and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojková
Up the center of the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Dvojková
Right in the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Dvojková
Along the right valley edge via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
4+
Dvojková
From the saddle, traverse right along the ledge to K of the "South Route". Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Dvojková
Up the center of the S wall directly to BH, slightly from the left into the ledge, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Dvojková
Left in the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Dvojková
From the saddle to the left of the edge, about 5m upwards, traverse left into the center… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Dvojková
Up the plateau wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
From the S along the ledge to the left into the center of the valley wall. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
From the NW in a prominent corner via a chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
On the N wall traverse left into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
From the high side, right via a crack to a small balcony on the SW edge and up the smooth… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Galaxie
In the middle of the E wall via a crack (K) and up the wall to the summit. (abseiling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Galaxie
Left of c. Star Rain via the corner to the pillar (loop). From there slightly right up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Galaxie
Along the NE edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Prašivka
Left on the valley side up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Prašivka
Up the high ridgelet to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Prašivka
Through the middle of the high wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7/7+
Sklepní kobka
In the East face to the right of the "Route from the Niche" by a crack to K (piton) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Suk
Far left on the South side by a corner and wall to the ledge. From the left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Suk
By the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Suk
To the left on the South side by a prominent edge directly onto the ledge, about 2m by… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Suk
From the upper side right into a crack and obliquely right through the South face to a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Suk
To the left of the SE edge by a corner into a niche in the edge. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Suk
In the middle of the South face by a crack below the overhang into a small cave, traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Suk
From the right onto the valley (NE) edge and along it to the balcony. Continue as "Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Suk
From the upper side traverse left to the valley side, by the indentation and wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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