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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Suk
Through the chimney in the North face below the overhang and over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Troll
To the right on the South side by the edge, wall and rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Troll
Far left on the South side via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Troll
From the start of the "South Route" along the ledge traverse right into the valley face,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Troll
To the right of the "Valley Route" by a small corner to K (piton), via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the overgrown terrace, left of the "North Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the overgrown terrace, left in the North face by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Troll
To the right in the valley face from the block left onto the edge and along it to K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Troll
To the right on the North side via the wall to the overgrown terrace. As Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Troll
From the west, up the steps to the overgrown terrace. To the right along the upper edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the terrace, 2m left of the upper edge up the steps and briefly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Strážce údolí
Right on the North side, via a crack-chimney to the summit (anchor bolt). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Strážce údolí
In the middle of the North face, via a crack below a fallen block into a saddle and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Strážce údolí
Up the right valley edge via a fixed point to the balcony and via a crack-groove to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Strážce údolí
From the terrace on the valley side, from the start of "Cold Edge", slightly left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Strážce údolí
From the balcony on the valley side at the left edge, right of the "End of Season" route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce údolí
Like "Valley of Joys", via a fixed point to the ledge. Through the corner directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strážce údolí
At the left valley edge, via a groove to the end and right to the balcony to a fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Strážce údolí
On the South side, up the center of the wall via a fixed point to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Trpaslík
From the ring of the "Greybeard" route directly up the wall, higher up like the "North… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Trpaslík
Right of the NE edge, up the wall to a ring, traverse left above the roof-like overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Trpaslík
From the right to the West edge and up it via a fixed point to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Trpaslík
From the West edge, traverse right to the balcony in the South face. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Trpaslík
Below the roof-like overhang on the East side, from the right, diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Trpaslík
4m right of the "Old Route", up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Trpaslík
From the ledge, up the center of the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Trpaslík
In the North face, traverse along ledges left to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Trpaslík
On the North side from the boulder via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7+/8-
Pohádka
(Massif approx. 500 m left of the Water source) up the center of the valley wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
660
Over the overhang and a short crack into the chimney and up it to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1

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