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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Severní terasa
Along the Plateau Edge to the fore-summit and by the “Old Way” to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
On the E side from the edge of the massif traverse right into the crack, up it to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Severní terasa
Subsector Suchá Kamenice. From the fore-summit jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Severní terasa
Left of “Plateau Edge” by crack to the fore-summit and over the crevice to the main… Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
From the gully by the left crack to the fore-summit and by the “Old Way” to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní terasa
From the gully, diagonally left up the wall to the bolt (bh) and into the holes (hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Severní terasa
Right of “Crankshaft” by crack to the seam and to 1st K of “Crankshaft”. Up the wall over… Rock Climbing
5+
Severní terasa
Between “Middle Plateau Crack” and “Left Plateau Crack” along a fine crack to the fore… Rock Climbing
6
Severní terasa
Like “Crankshaft” into the cave, by crack over the overhang (K) to the ledge (right of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the S wall left by the crack further left by the wall (2K) into the crack and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Severní terasa
In the left part of the S wall by crack into the cave, under the overhang traverse right… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Severní terasa
In the S wall briefly by the corner and left dynamically under 1st K, up the wall to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10-/10
Severní terasa
In the South wall left of the Naked Misfortune route up the wall via 1 and 2 BHs, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Severní terasa
From the 2nd BH of the Monkey Cage route, from the left up the wall into the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the West wall, left of Monsoon, along the crack to the 1st BH. Left to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Severní terasa
Along the valley edge via 5 BHs and the 5th K of the Naked Misfortune route to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the left part of the West wall via 4 BHs, left into the crack of the North Edge route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Severní terasa
In the West wall from the large balcony (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Severní terasa
As "Northern Crack" just below the overgrown terrace. North edge diagonally right over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Severní terasa
Left in the West wall via a crack (2BH) to the overgrown terrace and left of the NW edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Severní terasa
Start from the terrace in the North wall. From the start of the "Northern Crack" up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Severní terasa
From the SW edge traverse along the band to the terrace in the North wall, directly up… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Severní terasa
From the 1st BH of the "Terrace Slab" route, left up the wall via 6 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Severní terasa
Left of the Northern Crack route via the rib and right up the wall with a crack via 7 BHs… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Severní terasa
As "Northern Crack" to the terrace in the North wall and from its left edge via a double… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Severní terasa
Along the left valley (S) edge via K and right (2nd K) into a large corner. Through this … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Severní terasa
From the 1st ring of Gulliver's Route, traverse right to the edge and along it via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Severní terasa
Left below the valley chimney (belay with BH) via a crack and wall over 6 BHs to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Severní terasa
Left of the "Northern Chimney" route from the right over an overhang and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Severní terasa
Via the 1st K of "Giant's Corner" and directly through the crack (4K) to the balcony (6th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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