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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Věž Suché Kamenice
Left of "Bat" via a crack over 2 K and a roof-like overhang to 3. K. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Lesní duch
Through the center of the south wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní duch
In the middle of the east wall, from a block with aid climbing and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Lesní duch
Left of the "Old Route" via the wall to an sloping ledge, then left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní duch
About 2m right of the "Northeast Ridge" through holes to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesní duch
2m right of the "Raspberry Route" up the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní duch
Along the plateau edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní duch
2m left of the "Northeast Ridge" via a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lesní duch
Through the center of the east face between the Kobercova and Lavor routes from finger… Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní duch
Left in the east wall via the corner and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní duch
From the west by chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side, from the beginning of the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
Briefly via the "Pacifik" route and diagonally right to a ledge to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
To the right of the "Krása nesmírná" (Immense Beauty) route, along the edge over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mlynářská stěna
In the right part of the E wall via a crack and fissures over 6 BH and 2 K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
Briefly through the "Krásy nesmírné" (Immense Beauty) crack and left to the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Mlynářská stěna
From the Beggar's Banquet route, by the overhanging curved edge over 2 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Mlynářská stěna
Up a corner and crack via K into a gully (rappel). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
Right of the Central Crack up the wall via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mlynářská stěna
Through the corner crack and a small pillar in the center of the valley wall to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Mlynářská stěna
As "Wet Cellar" to the ring of "Mládkovy Route" and right up the wall (3 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mlynářská stěna
Via Mládkovy Route under the overhang above 2nd K. Left into a chimney, by this under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mlynářská stěna
Like Mládkovy Route via a corner (BH) to the balcony. Left crack over 2 BH to the end … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Mlynářská stěna
In the SW face via a corner to a pine tree, here 3m left, via a crack and chimney to 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Mlynářská stěna
Left in the valley wall via a chimney and wall (3 BH) to the 1st K of "Mládkovy Route".… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Stromová věž
2m left of the "Plateau Ridge" up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
4+
Stromová věž
Up the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Stromová věž
Up the center of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
4-
Stromová věž
Up the NW ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Stromová věž
Up the center of the N face below the overhang and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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