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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Stromová věž
Up the center of the W face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Stromová věž
Up the SW ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
8-/8
Kamenický přízrak
Completely right in the upper part of the S face via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Stromová věž
Up the NE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Stromová věž
2m right of the "Old Route" up the wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Stromová věž
Up the center of the E face. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Kamenický přízrak
Up the center of the S face via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Kamenický přízrak
6m left of the route "Ghost in the Skyscraper" - from the pillar up an overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Kamenický přízrak
Left in the S face to the top of a prominent pillar, then right 8 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kamenický přízrak
Up the South face via 1st K into a crack and to 2nd K. From the left to 3rd K and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kamenický přízrak
Completely left from the terrace via a chimney and wall over 9 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kamenický přízrak
From the 5th BH of the route 'The best for last', right up the wall via 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kamenický přízrak
Left from the terrace (stance, BH) up a short crack, right and an overhanging crack via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10
Toreador
In the W face from the starting BH, via the face slightly right over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Toreador
In the middle of the valley S face via a crack or from the right via the face into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Toreador
From the start of the Olé route, traverse along the ledge into the center of the W face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Toreador
To the left in the W face, traverse right and up the face to K. Via the crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Toreador
To the right in the NW face from the "Rebellious Bull Variant" via a crack over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Mys Kamenice
To the right of the "Close to the Wind" route, via the face over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Růžek
Behind the Corner Tower from the lowest point of the SW face via a crack, face and edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Růžek
In the W face to the left of the chimney, via the overhanging face (2BH) and edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Růžek
Behind the Corner Tower, on the left in the SW face from the block via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mys Kamenice
In the left part of the face over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Rohová věž
From the massif east of the summit, traverse to the edge and jump from the sloping… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Růžek
On the left in the NW face, via the face 1bh further diagonally right to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Růžek
In the buttress of the NW face, 1 bh to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Růžek
In the right part of the NW face, via the crack and left to the rappel point of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rohová věž
Along the plateau's NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rohová věž
Up the South indistinct edge to a small platform, then by positioning and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Rohová věž
Approach at the edge of the slope near the S edge. Up the wall to the oblique finger… Rock Climbing

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