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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Severní terasa
From the 4th K to the ledge and right to the 5th K. Diagonally right through the notch to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Severní terasa
Through the middle of the East wall via 4 BHs to the 5th BH. From there, a horizontal… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Severní terasa
Completely on the left in the East wall, via a corner over 4 K to a ledge, further left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Samotář
Valley wall, old project, two rings Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Samotář
In the upper wall, by placing at K. Up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Samotář
From the rock block on the upper side, traverse right to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Samotář
From the start of the Old Route, up the middle of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Samotář
From the balcony on the east side, right over the overhang and up the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Samotář
Left upper overhanging edge over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Samotář
To the left in the upper wall, from the ledge up the wall over 2K, higher up slightly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pařát
From left or right to the balcony. Through the crack and along the edge over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Pařát
To the right of the Death Metal route, along the ribs, later up the wall over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Zelený panelák
To the right in the valley wall from the pre-rock face over 2 BH to the 4th BH of the TnT… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Zelený panelák
In the right part of the wall, through a prominent corner (2 BH) to the balcony, through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Zelený panelák
From the left part of the valley wall, slightly right over 2 BH. From the left to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Zelený panelák
In the right part of the valley wall along the ribs 5 BH, left into the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Zelený panelák
From the left valley edge, right into the wall and up it over 3 BH and 3 overhangs,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Zelený panelák
Along the left valley edge directly over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Lesní věž
From the ramp in the valley wall via a crack (K) to a large platform and via the "Old… Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní věž
Up the E wall a short traverse right to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lesní věž
Short traverse right into the middle of the E wall, up the wall to a large platform and… Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní věž
Up the S wall to the ledge, traverse right and up the wall or edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní věž
Along the Z edge below the summit head, traverse left and via the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing
2
Věž Suché Kamenice
Most likely the work of Jörg Andreas. Right of the "Periferie" route (4BH) (see photo red… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Through the middle of the valley S wall (2BH) to the stand. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Věž Suché Kamenice
From the valley side via a crack to the platform and left to the balcony to K. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Věž Suché Kamenice
In the left part of the S wall (3BH) to the stand. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Věž Suché Kamenice
From 1. K of the "Bat" route right into the notch to 2. K. Traverse right across the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Via the crack of the Forced Labour route (loop) and left to 1. BH. From the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Věž Suché Kamenice
In the E wall from the right edge via a crack (1. K) diagonally left below the roof-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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