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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Rohová věž
From the plateau side diagonally left via the SE face to the S edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Rohová věž
Along the edge about 3m left of the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Rohová věž
In the left part of the west face to the 2nd bh of the "Sleeping Man" route, to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Rohová věž
Through the center of the W wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rohová věž
In the left part of the west face, over 2 bh directly to the abseil bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Rohová věž
Briefly like "Fingerboard", traverse left to the edge and along that over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rohová věž
In the right part of the W wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Rohová věž
From the balcony along the NW edge over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Rohová věž
Through the center of the north face over 3 BH and below the summit from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rohová věž
From the W via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Patolízal
In the right part of the wall via the "Leaning Ladder to Heaven" route from the 1st bh… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Patolízal
In the NW wall to the right of the "Sweet Lizzie" route, up the overhanging wall (2 BH).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Patolízal
In the right part of the NW wall via the chimney to the 1st bh, slightly from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Patolízal
Far left of the massif. From the bh of the "Zona" route, slightly from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Patolízal
Through the center of the NW wall via the crack (bh) to the ledge and from the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Patolízal
In the right part of the NW wall via the chimney (2 BH) from the left, higher up through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Indiánská vesnice
In the right part of the valley wall from the kane along the blunt edge (BH) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Patolízal
Far left of the massif, through the center of the wall (bh) and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Patolízal
Far left of the massif, over the overhang along the edge to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Indiánská vesnice
In the right part of the valley wall directly 2 BH and along the edge to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pouštní růže
Right through the face (2BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pouštní růže
Left through the face (BH) to the rappel Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Smutný oči
Middle of the N face via a small dihedral/pillar to the 1st BH of the route Iba, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pouštní růže
Middle of the massif via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Smutný oči
In the right part of the N face, through the face and edge via 2BH to the rappel.. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
In the north face (3BH) to the rappel Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Smutný oči
Middle of the N face via a small dihedral/pillar and slightly left through the face 2 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Deset plus
Left of the prominent crack diagonally left through the face (2BH) to the rappel Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Deset plus
In the left part of the face (BH) to the rappel of the Mordovina route Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Jeskyňář
South face (BH) from the left over the overhang and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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