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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Dvojče
Along the valley East ridge to the main summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Dvojče
As a left alternative to the Old Route, go left to the balcony. Via the ramp in the N… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Kouzelná skála
On the far right of the massif, diagonally up a crack over a ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kouzelná skála
To the right in the valley pillar up the wall (K) and from the left onto the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kouzelná skála
Up the left part of the valley pillar via the wall and a crack over K to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Kouzelná skála
On the far left of the massif, up a distinct edge (2 BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Bloková stěna
From the South to the southern forepeak, up the left overhanging edge over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Bloková stěna
From the terrace on the S face to the right of the South Chimney, via a notch in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Bloková stěna
In the right part of the south face, right into the Východní blok route, up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Bloková stěna
In the south face to the right of "Blokáda", up the wall over 2 BH to the ledge (pockets)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Bloková stěna
On the left side of the south face, over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Pahorek
Up the wall directly to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pahorek
Along the SW edge under the overhang, traverse left and via a gully to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Pahorek
Up the center of the NW wall past a ring to the 2nd ring. To the left via a pillar to its… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pahorek
To the left of "The Compulsory Route", up the small wall and slab past 3 rings to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlatá klec
Along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Pahorek
Along the NW edge past 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zlatá klec
Up the wall directly over the bolt and the rappel bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Zahradní stěna
Entry behind the chimney in the right part of the wall. Up the wall past 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Zlatá klec
From the edge of the ceiling via an overhang into a ledge, and to the right past a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Zahradní stěna
In the middle of the wall, up the wall and through a crack, at the top via a chimney to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Zahradní stěna
To the right of the "Blackboard Jungle" route, up the wall past 11 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Zahradní stěna
Along the left valley edge past 9 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Zahradní stěna
6m left of the "April Mud" route, up the wall past 7 bolts and through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Polepšovna
Follow the "Walk Through the Rose Garden" route to the 2nd bolt, below it through a hole… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Polepšovna
Via the right valley crack under the overhang, traverse on the ledge into the "Walk… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8-/8
Brno
Hand traverse in the ledge to the left to the edge (bolt) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Poutník
In the right part of the massif, up the wall, via a pillar and an overhang past 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Čajův a Asuův deníček
Up the wall directly over the bolt and the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Čajův a Asuův deníček
Up the wall into a recess and to the right to the rappel station of the "Above Ground"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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