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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Blázinec
From the corner to the right to the 1st BH and up the wall via two BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Blázinec
Approximately in the center of the wall via an overhang and then up the wall (slings) via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Blázinec
Via a crack under the overhang and over the overhang to the 1st BH, from the right over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Blázinec
Narrow NE wall (3 BH) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9+
Směnárna
Right valley edge from the stone to the 1st BH, over the overhang and edge to the 2nd BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Směnárna
In the right part of the wall up the wall to the 1st BH, from the right over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Směnárna
From the large ledge on the valley (W) side to the right of the 'Vysoce v kurzu' route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Směnárna
From the large ledge on the valley (W) side via 4 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Směnárna
From the corner in the left part of the wall diagonally right via 2 BH to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Směnárník
In the S wall of the left pillar via a crack and to the right up the wall, finally along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Směnárník
Up the wall directly to BH. From the right with the edge higher left and via a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Směnárník
Along the edge from the corner in the south wall to BH, slightly right up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Směnárník
In the left part of the S wall slightly left upwards to the 1st bolt at the edge. SW edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
10
Zbytek
From BH of the 'Chain Carousel' route further via the roof over the 2nd BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Deštník
In the left part of the west wall directly to BH, slightly right into the ledge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Zbytek
In the right part of the massif, via the roof from the hourglasses directly to BH. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Zbytek
In the left part of the wall directly to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
9/9+
Kovid
Traverse the ledge to BH and from the right over the hourglasses and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Kovid
Via the overhanging edge by jumping to the hourglass and via BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Kovid
To the right of 'Increased Temperature' via an overhanging edge directly into the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Hraniční věž
From the balcony in the north wall, via BH directly and along the edge and gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kovid
In the left part of the massif along the crack to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Hraniční věž
From the balcony in the north wall, to the right of the birch, difficultly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Hraniční věž
From the balcony in the north wall, via an overhanging slab to the ledge and over the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
7+/8-
Hraniční věž
In the middle of the balcony in the north wall directly to BH, further over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hraniční věž
From the NE edge traverse 4m right and up the wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hraniční věž
Through the middle of the S wall via 3 rings to a large overgrown balcony. Up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Hraniční věž
From the plateau side to the right into the S wall, along its NE edge to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční věž
From the side, traverse diagonally left onto the SE edge. Along it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hraniční věž
Through the middle of the plateau wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing

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