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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Hraniční věž
From the crack to the ledge and along it left to the BH. Along the SE edge directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hraniční věž
In the middle of the SW wall over 2 K to the ledge, to the right to the 3rd K and up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hraniční věž
Left up the SW wall to a ledge, a fragile small wall to a ledge and traverse left into… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hraniční věž
From the base of the tower on the valley side, to the right of the right valley (SW) edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Hraniční věž
In the right part of the S wall over 2 BH and below the summit from the left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hraniční věž
On the valley (W) side to the left of the SW edge up the wall over the 1st BH and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Tom a Jerry
Along the prominent edge to the left of the start of the 'Day Before Sunday' route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Cypřich
To the left of the niche in the right part of the valley wall over the ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Cypřich
On the valley side from the start of the 'Old Tired Electric Current' route, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
8/8+
Cypřich
On the valley side from the base of the massif at the left edge, up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
7-/7
Cypřich
On the valley side from the base of the massif, up the wall to the 1st K and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Vřesová výspa
In the lower part of the S wall, just to the right of the starting crack of the Povříslo… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Vřesová výspa
In the lower part of the S wall along a short crack to the ledge and up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Ještěr
From the balcony in the massif, a jump to the center of the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ještěr
From the balcony in the massif, an overhang from a standing position to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ještěr
To the right in the plateau wall via 2 K and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Ještěr
From the balcony in the massif, descend a few meters to the right, jump to a protrusion… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Ještěr
In the plateau wall via a crack to the ledge, from the right (2K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Ještěr
From K of the "Old Route", traverse right and through the middle of the plateau wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Ještěr
Along the overhanging SE edge to K of the Old Route and via it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Ještěr
Via the "Valley Route" to the 3rd K and directly over the 5th K of "Emerald Lizard" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Ještěr
Along the left valley edge via 3 K to the 4th K of the Valley Route, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Ještěr
On the plateau side to the left via a struggle chimney to K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Ještěr
Through the middle of the valley wall via 3 K, higher up diagonally left (4th K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Lidice
To the right of the chimney between Ještěr and Lidice, up the wall and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Overhang
8+/9-
Lidice
In the right part of the massif via a small chimney to a small balcony and directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Ještěr
Up the overhanging South wall via 2 K, higher up to the left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Správce bez práce
To the right on the massif, along the small edge to the ledge and along the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Správce bez práce
On the West side to the left under the overhang via a corner to the ledge. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Správce bez práce
Boulder in the middle of the wall to the ledge (sling) and up the wall via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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