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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Pidižvík
In the NW wall, up the crack to the summit. (rappel station) Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Borová brána
Up the crack in the middle of the massif to the end (slings), then right onto the ramp… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Borová brána
From the fixed gear (hourglass) near the Loop Blues route, up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Borová brána
About 5m to the right of the Loop Blues route, along the crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Borová brána
In the right part of the valley wall, up the wall along the edge and over 2 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Borová brána
Left of the "Rover's Rib" route, via the overhanging corner to BH and left over the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Turista
In the right part of the valley wall, up the wall over the overhang to BH. Straight and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Borová brána
Follow the route "Cosmic Wander" (or the edge to the right) to the balcony (sling) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Borová brána
In the right part of the massif, via the overhanging rib and the slabby wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Turista
Between the routes "Alone in the Crowd" and "Above the Yellow Mark", via the overhanging… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Turista
In the right part of the West face over a jammed boulder and along the crack about 4m up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Turista
In the middle of the upper wall along the central crack over the BH and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Turista
Left of the "Uncertain Presence" route, via the left crack to BH, higher up the crack in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Turista
All the way to the right in the upper section, from the gorge through a break-out to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pastýřská stěna
From the grassy terraces about 1/3 of the way up the wall, from the right or left onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Pastýřská stěna
Follow the route "All Saints March" to K, then diagonally right up the wall for about 5m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Pastýřská stěna
Start from a grassy terrace below the left part of the smooth slab, left of a short notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Left of the "North Edge" route, up the wall to a ledge, through a crack and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Pastýřská stěna
Right of the Compromise route, up the wall over the hourglass to 1st K. Right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Pastýřská stěna
Along the edge to an overhanging nose, which we bypass from the right, then back left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pastýřská stěna
Approx. 15m left of the S edge (right of the overgrown corner), climb the broken wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Right of the "Green Curtain", climb the wall to K. Continue up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Left of K, along the edge to a grassy hollow and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Up the middle of the wall over a horizontal notch (hourglass) to below the rounded belly.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Start same as "Apprentice Overhang". Above the overhang via a delicate chimney in the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pastýřská stěna
Right edge of the S pillar. Along the edge with an overhanging start to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Start up the overhanging wall to the right of the "Rat Edge". Above the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Pastýřská stěna
All the way to the right on the north pillar along the edge and diagonally left over an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pastýřská stěna
In the middle of the S pillar through cracks to their end and diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pastýřská stěna
To the left of the start of the "North Pillar" over an overhang (hours) and slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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