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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Start left of the "Southeast Way" wall across the circle to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Strážce údolí
Between the massif and the tower upwards and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Directly up the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Through the chimney between the tower and the block onto the block, then cross over to… Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the gate, up the crack to the platform above the first staircase. Up the… Rock Climbing
6
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
At the end of the first staircase, left to the ledge to the ring. Up the staircase crack,… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce údolí
Through the center of the North wall to the ring, higher obliquely right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce údolí
To the left in the South wall to the platform and up the Southwest edge to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the staircase in the valley wall, up the crack into the notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the passage between the first and second staircase on the way up, to the left… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce údolí
Directly up the Southwest edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Up the wall, crack, and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left of the route (z) through cracks (ring) to the end (2nd ring) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left of the "West Crack" route, up the crack (2 rings), higher up the pinnacle… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the 5th bolt of the "Wolf in sheep's clothing" route, directly up the edge over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the 1st ring of the West Crack route, to the right up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the "Goat's Corner" route, along the edge and a small corner to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the break in the corner, directly up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the Conical route via the edge (ring) and then up the wall over 4 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Up the wall along the left edge of the route "Ralskyho vzdor" to the 3rd bolt, left with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
In the narrow SW wall, directly up the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the narrowing chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the corner crack to the top. Direct. Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Up a slightly overhanging corner over the overhang, above it to the right into the crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the wide crack into the window and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left in the S wall via a small pinnacle/arete and edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the crack and fissure into the small cave, over the overhang and via the chimney… Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of Sarka's Route, via a widening crack (ring), higher up via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
About 4m along Sarka's Route, then diagonally right below the overhang, over it via a… Rock Climbing

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