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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Jizerská věž
Via route d) to the balcony, traverse right along the entire N wall into a short crack.… Rock Climbing
4-
Jizerská věž
To the right in the W wall via a double crack and rib to the balcony. Via the old route… Rock Climbing
5+
Jizerská věž
Through the crack in the left valley wall to the sloping platform and via route b) to the… Rock Climbing
3
Zuzanka
From the NW between the massif of the Tunnel Tower and the tower via a short crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zuzanka
In the valley wall, through a crack to the ring, right into the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zuzanka
Through the corner in the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zuzanka
Via a slanted crack to the right of the NW route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zuzanka
From the SE via a small pillar (falconet) to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Paroh
From the valley side on the left, through a corner crack between the tower and the massif… Rock Climbing
4+
Paroh
To be verified by the area manager! Rock Climbing
8/8+
Paroh
From the SW through the chimney and traverse a ledge to the balcony. Along the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Paroh
From the valley side on the right, through the chimney between the tower and the massif… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Paroh
Via route c) to the balcony and along the left valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
From the balcony, swing up to the NW edge and along it. (unsecured) Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Paroh
From the saddle, from the left or right to the sub-summit, (by building) and traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
From the NW through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
To the right from the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
To the right from the massif, descend, traverse to the right North edge and along that to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
To the right in the SW wall, traverse left and up the wall (ring). Up and left to the W… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
From the NE via an overhang and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Listopadová věž (Honzík)
From the massif, descend and traverse to the SE edge and along that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Česká jehla
In the center of the valley wall (with a stand), up the wall into a crack, along it to a… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Česká jehla
To the left in the massif, descend, jump onto a plateau and via route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Česká jehla
From the ring, right up the wall, later by opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Česká jehla
Along the W edge (ring) to a plateau and via route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Česká jehla
From the massif descend to a balcony. Traverse left to a ledge, climb an overhang and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Česká jehla
Along the left uphill edge by opposition to the ring. Beyond the edge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lužická věž
From the valley (N) edge via delicate overhanging small chimneys (3 rings) into a wide… Rock Climbing
2+
Česká jehla
To the right in the upper wall, up a chimney to a plateau and along the W edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Lužická věž
To the right of the route "Eccentrics on the ground floor" via a small chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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