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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the wide crack into the window and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the crack and up the wall over the overhang, then via the chimney to the plateau.… Rock Climbing
6
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left of the 'Overhang' route, via a crack and up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Via the 'Robber's Trap' route to the ledge above the 2nd ring and directly up the wall … Rock Climbing
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the diagonal crack below the overhang and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the crack below the overhang, establishing into another crack and along it, higher… Rock Climbing
2+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the corner via a pyrite depression into the niche, along a smooth corner crack to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left of the 'Diagonal Crack' route, up the wall below the overhang, over it (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the crack to the pine tree and via the chimney, higher up to the right via the… Rock Climbing
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the left of the East Chimney route, via cracks and the pillar (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Start to the left of the Pine Route up the wall to the ring. Further along the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
In the right part of the SE wall, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Up the wall along the cracks to the plateau and via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the wall via the ring into the gully and diagonally left to the 2nd ring. Through… Rock Climbing
3
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Placing into the crack, along it and the rib into the horizontal cut. Traverse left into… Rock Climbing
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right in the SE wall, along the crack to its end, up the wall to the ledge, and… Rock Climbing
4+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Up the wall, gully, and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the S crack via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
Along the SE edge to the ledge. Along the edge and wall to the step to the 1st ring. To… Rock Climbing
6-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
From the NE crack to its end and right to the 1st ring. Along the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing
5+
Sakráček
Along the right uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sakráček
To the left in the uphill wall over the ring to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jizerská věž
In the N wall left to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jizerská věž
Via the sloping crack in the S wall (ring) to the platform and via route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sakráček
From the uphill side left into the valley wall and along it diagonally left, higher up as… Rock Climbing
5
Jizerská věž
From the uphill side via a crack to the balcony and via the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jizerská věž
From the balcony of route d) traverse left to the platform and via route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jizerská věž
Via route d) to the balcony, traverse right along the entire N wall into a short crack.… Rock Climbing

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