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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Pastýřská stěna
Start via a short chimney between the "Veil Edge" and the "Shepherd's Wall Edge". Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Pastýřská stěna
Arbitrarily to the bridge of the "Divorce Route". To the right of the wide crack, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Pastýřská stěna
To the left of the fall line of the "Veil Edge" via an overhang and wall into a corner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Pastýřská stěna
Access is possible in two ways: a) From the right via an overhanging edge then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Pastýřská stěna
Through a short chimney between the Shepherd's Wall Edge and the Veil Edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pastýřská stěna
Arbitrarily to the bridge of the "Divorce Route". Up the middle of the wall over 3 K to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Pastýřská stěna
Start like the "Divorce Route" to the bridge, then left and then up the wall and an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Pastýřská stěna
Start to the right of the "Professionals' Wall", in the fall line of a prominent edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Pastýřská stěna
Start under the roof-like overhang, via the overhanging friable edge to the nose.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Pastýřská stěna
From the NE to the right of the overhang via the left rib. At its end, traverse right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Pastýřská stěna
To the right of the large corner, up the overhanging wall over 4 K to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Pastýřská stěna
To the left of the Forbidden Release route, up the overhanging wall over 6 BH diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Pastýřská stěna
To the right of the CI5 route, up the sloping pyritic wall over 5 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pastýřská stěna
Up the middle of the wall about 8m around several hours, then diagonally left to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Pastýřská stěna
Start in the valley (E) wall left of the "Professionals' Wall". Through a distinct corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pastýřská stěna
From 1. K directly up the wall to 2. K and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Chupacabra
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kometa
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Nevěsta a ženich
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing
?
Mravenčí věž
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
2
Zámecký kámen
From E up the wall via carved steps to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zámecký kámen
N wall over the overhang to the ring and along the overhang edge via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sarkafarka
Along the plateau edge, higher up the wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Sarkafarka
Start about 3m right of the "Plateau Route" wall over the overhang directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sarkafarka
Along the plateau edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Zámecký kámen
In the left part of the S wall up, left behind the edge into the gully and through it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Sarkafarka
Along the blunt valley edge, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Through the chimney between the tower and the block onto the block, then cross over to… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce údolí
Between the massif and the tower upwards and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce údolí
Through the right part of the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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