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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Správce bez práce
Along the edge and the edge of the overhang via 2 BH to the rappel point of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Správce bez práce
Via the corner to the ledge and ceiling via BH to the 2nd BH. Directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Hřiště
In the right part of the wall via overhang and crack, ceiling from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Hřiště
Through the middle of the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Poslední masiv
In the right part of the massif, left over the overhang and via a crack, in the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
5+
Poslední masiv
In the right part of the massif, in the middle over the overhang and via an interrupted… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
9/9+
Poslední masiv
In the right part of the massif to the right via an overhanging wall (2 BH), slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Poslední masiv
In the left part of the massif via the wall directly over BH to the ledge and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Poslední masiv
Completely to the left of the massif via a crack and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kočičí vyhlídka
About 5m right of the Old Route via a blunt edge in the triangular wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kočičí vyhlídka
Via the route 'Grumpy Cat' to the ledge and directly up the wall to K. Higher over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Kočičí vyhlídka
Up the slightly overhanging wall to the left of the E chimney along the crack (loop) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Triangl
To the left of the Dirty Route, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Triangl
Up the chimney in the right part of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Triangl
From the highest point of the plateau, up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Triangl
From the massif, traverse/jump to the right part of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Triangl
In the right part of the E wall over pockets to the 1st fixed ring/bolt (K) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Triangl
To the right of the Kulovej kunda route, up a ramp to the pillar and to the right through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Triangl
Up the middle of the east wall over 2 fixed rings/bolts (K) and along a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Triangl
From the platform in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Triangl
In the left part of the valley wall over hourglass threads into a corner and a short wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Triangl
Along the right valley edge over a fixed ring/bolt (K) and further up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Triangl
From the balcony, up the middle of the valley wall over several hourglass threads to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Triangl
Up the overhanging wall along the W edge (many hourglass threads) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Triangl
Up the crack-chimney in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Triangl
Through the left part of the plateau wall to a small balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pidižvík
In the left part of the SE wall, up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
2+
Triangl
In the right part of the W wall, from the boulder up a wide chimney, higher up the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pidižvík
In the right part of the SE wall, up the crack (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Borová brána
To the left of the Loop Blues route, diagonally left up the crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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