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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Lužická věž
Up the SE edge over a ring into a niche, traverse left and diagonally up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lužická věž
From the niche, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lužická věž
Along the left uphill edge to the ring, then further right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Husitská věž
From the saddle, along the left (W) edge over 3 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Lužická věž
Up the center of the W wall over a ring to the 2nd ring of the route "Spirála" and along… Rock Climbing
9+
Husitská věž
Up the center of the valley East face over 6 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Husitská věž
By opposition between the tower and the massif onto a plateau in the massif (ring). With… Rock Climbing
6
Husitská věž
From the saddle to the right into the S wall and diagonally right (ring) into the gully,… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Husitská věž
To the left in the East face diagonally left over 4 rings into the Komáří Route and along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Husitská věž
Right in the S wall into a small chimney and through it (ring) into a crack, through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Husitská věž
Along the NE edge over 3 rings and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Srbská věž
Up the center of the South face to the ring and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Husitská věž
Up the North face diagonally left to the ring, (by aid climbing) into the niche, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Srbská věž
Along the SE edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Srbská věž
3 meters to the right of Kazan's Route up the wall into the 'sokol' (pedestal/block).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Srbská věž
To the left in the South face to the ring and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Pachole
To the right of route a) via the wide crack to the sub-summit. Route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Srbská věž
To the left of Kazan's Route via the narrow North face over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Srbská věž
Through the crack in the West face to the niche, traverse right and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Srbská věž
Through the crack in the East face to the ring and to the right by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pachole
Through the chimney from the South to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pachole
Through the chimney to the West pillar, step across to the sub-summit and (by aid… Rock Climbing
3
Pachole
From the NE through the corner and chimney to the East sub-summit and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pachole
To the left of route a) along the edge to the sub-summit and further along route a)… Rock Climbing
4-
Pachole
Up through the corner of the North Route and right via the crack to the sub-summit. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
3
Pachole
Through the corner in the center of the North face to the ledge, left to the edge and… Rock Climbing
4-
Pachole
In the South face through the gully to the left and via the disappearing crack to the… Rock Climbing
10-/10
Saská věž
Briefly via the chimney and overhanging edge via 5 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Saská věž
To the right of route b) up the wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Saská věž
Up the plateau edge via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing

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