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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Věž bratří Nehasilových
From E, transition from the block into the wall and then to the ledge. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž bratří Nehasilových
Start left of "Dáda's Route" via the wall (below the rappel point) directly through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the right on the plateau wall, diagonally right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the right on the W wall, ascend the wall into a horizontal iron-rich notch, then long… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věž bratří Nehasilových
To the left on the valley wall, ascend the wall diagonally right into the crack, and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zelený Jindřich
To the left of the "Helmut Vohnout" route, with a pillar and wall before the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zelený Jindřich
Completely to the left in the upper wall, up the wall to the edge and along it, to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zelený Jindřich
From the edge over 2 rings directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Zelený Jindřich
To the right of the Old Route, ascend the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Medvědí zátiší
In the West wall via a rounded corner to the plateau and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Medvědice
From the left to the upper edge and along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Medvědí zátiší
Along the upper edge over a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Medvědí zátiší
Through a narrow chimney in the upper wall to the fore-summit and to the right to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Medvědice
From the left to the center of the East wall and along it over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
2+
Medvědí dráp
From the massif, a jump (or short traverse) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Medvědice
(By aid climbing) and gully in the valley wall to the summit /without aid VIIb/. Rock Climbing
4-
Medvědí dráp
From the upper side via a gap between the tower and the massif, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kouzelník
Via the chimney, higher up the wall along the upper edge (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kouzelník
From the fore-summit to the left in the valley wall, diagonally left to the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kouzelník
By stemming in the upper wall, higher up traverse right to the ring. To the right up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rysí věž
From the start of the 'Dry Time' route, up the wall (below the abseil point) directly… Rock Climbing
5+
Rysí věž
Up the W face over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rysí věž
Right of the center of the E face, via the gully diagonally right to the ring and… Rock Climbing
6
Rysí věž
In the middle of the N face, via the chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rysí věž
Up the NW overhanging wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rysí věž
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rysí věž
From the left to the SW edge and along it over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rysí věž
In the right part of the S face, over the overhang and diagonally left to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
6-
Rysí věž
Left in the upper wall via a hawk-like feature into the notch and then traverse left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Drážďanský kužel
Through the crack along the valley edge over the ring and along the edge (2 BH) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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