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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Svobodný kámen
To the right of the "Valley Route" by the wall to the left and directly to the false… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6-
Svobodný kámen
To the left of the "Old Route" by a small wall to the false summit. Further as the "Old… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2
Svobodný kámen
In the middle of the NW wall via a chimney to the false summit and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Světoví tuláci
To the left of the left valley edge over a sloping ledge and to the right by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Svobodný kámen
Along the right valley edge directly to the false summit. Further as the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7-/7
Světoví tuláci
In the middle of the valley wall directly over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zakázaný vrchol
Along the left edge, traverse right into a corner and by it to the terrace. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
8+/9-
Zakázaný vrchol
Along the overhanging valley edge and left along the second edge to the terrace. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střelený Prušák
Along the SE edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4+
Světoví tuláci
Along the left upper edge to a ledge, traverse left to the right valley edge and by that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Střelený Prušák
In the middle of the overhanging upper wall by extensive aid climbing and by the wall to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Střelený Prušák
Directly up the overhanging upper (NE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Střelený Prušák
In the S wall diagonally right to the edge and by it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Oberon
From the valley side, to the right of the prominent corner, up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Karlova věž
Along the crack from NE (hourglass) via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Karlova věž
In the center of the E wall, along the sloping ledge to the right, and up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Karlova věž
From the SW edge diagonally right via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Karlova věž
Along the valley edge over the overhang into the hole (hourglass), left through a hollow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Karlova věž
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Karlova věž
Short crack in the center of the E wall to the ramp. Up the wall via 2BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Oberon
Through the center of the valley wall from the left via 2 rings and hourglasses to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Karlova věž
From the side channel, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Karlova věž
To the left in the NW wall via a ring into a wide crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Karlova věž
To the left of route a) by an ascending hollow to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Karlova věž
In the forefield to the right of route "Industriálka" along the blunt edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Strážce Slunečného dolu
Like the route "Mistrovův chodníček" (Master's path) to the 1st ring. To the left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Strážce Slunečného dolu
From the saddle, up the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážce Slunečného dolu
From the base of the West ridge, up the wall to the 1st ring. To the right over hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážce Slunečného dolu
From the base of the West ridge, traverse the entire valley (North) wall to the crack.… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Slunečného dolu
From the ledge via the valley chimney to the saddle and then by route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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