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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Pat a Mat
In the left part of the plateau wall to the "Mata" summit and then traverse to "Pata". Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Přírodní kosmetika
Up the short uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hafuška
In the left part of the S wall to the ramp (loop) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hafuška
Via crack from S to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Přírodní kosmetika
In the valley wall from the balcony through an overhanging crack up. Rock Climbing
4+
Dlouhá noc
To the right in the plateau wall via a small falcon up. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Vlhkej kout
Through a crack and wall over 4 BH and to the right on the edge and up. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hafuška
Up the right valley edge over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hafuška
Via crack from N (below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hafuška
Up the left valley edge over 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hafuška
Through the crack 2 m left of the "Severní spára" (Northern crack) route to its end,… Rock Climbing
2+
Hafuška
From the uphill side to the ledge in the S wall and up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hafuška
Up the left uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šajba
From the massif, by traverse/step to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jízdárna
In the middle of the left wall of "Jízdárna" from the block via a prominent wider crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Spare Route
7-/7
Šajba
From the gorge between "Jízdárna" and "Šajba", via 'sokol' to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Jízdárna
In the main wall of "Jízdárna" to the left of the "Vosař" route, up the wall over 2 K to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Národní park
Up the valley wall to the 'sokolík' (free) and along the NW edge to the terrace. Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Jízdárna
Approximately in the middle of the main wall of "Jízdárna" (just to the right of the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Všemmilé kopy
In the right part of the South wall, up the wall and higher up through a short crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Všemmilé kopy
In the left part of the sulphide wall along the crack, higher up via the double crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Všemmilé kopy
Up the prominent corner in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Všemmilé kopy
Up the overhanging edge over 4 rings (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Všemmilé kopy
Up the wall directly to the bolt and via the gully/chimney to the left into the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Všemmilé kopy
Up the wall directly over the BH to the last hold and right into the exit of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Smutné věžičky
In the right part of the East valley wall directly over the 1st and 2nd ring (bolt),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Smutné věžičky
In the large corner in the valley wall, through the corner and the right chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Všemmilé kopy
From the main plateau/area between the peaks through a narrowing chimney to the southeast… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Smutné věžičky
Up the plateau gully/chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Smutné věžičky
Up the prominent East edge over 2 rings (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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