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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Všemmilé kopy
From the main plateau/area between the peaks through a narrowing chimney to the southeast… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Smutné věžičky
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Prvok
Up the right valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Smutné věžičky
Traverse/climb from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Prvok
Up the wall and the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prvok
Up the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Prvok
In the right part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Všemilská věž
In the left part of the South wall, diagonally left to the hourglasses (rock formations)… Rock Climbing
5
Všemilská věž
By technical climbing, up the wall into a gully and diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Všemilská věž
From the left, up the wall into a gully and via the "Southeast Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Všemilská věž
Up the wall over overhangs and several hourglasses (rock formations) to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
5
Všemilská věž
From the "Old Route", traverse left along the ledge under the overhang in the left part… Rock Climbing
5+
Všemilská věž
Up the wall below the rappel over several hourglasses (rock formations) and a ring (bolt)… Rock Climbing
6
Všemilská věž
Through the middle of the South wall to the gully/chimney and over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Všemilská věž
Start like the "Telegraph Route" above the overhang, traverse 2 m right and directly up… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Tečka
Up the middle of the East wall to the ledge (sling). Diagonally right over the ledges to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tečka
In the right part of the valley wall, through a crack to the ledge. From there, left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Všemilská věž
From the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Koza Líza
Up the crack in the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Tečka
Up the middle of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Tečka
Up the valley wall directly via a bolt and two hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Socha Moai
From the side of the massif around the pine tree and by stepping over, or by jumping over… Rock Climbing
6
Inženýr Pavel Pavel
Up the corner crack from the South to the "Moai Statue", traverse into the wall and via… Rock Climbing
2+
Socha Moai
From the South up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Socha Moai
In the right part of the North wall through the crack and up the wall via the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Třetihory
Up the prominent overhanging valley edge via 2 rings directly to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Ukrajina
Up the narrowing crack in the valley wall via the 1st bolt and left via the overhanging… Rock Climbing
3
Třetihorní věž
In the middle between the tower and the massif, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Třetihorní věž
Start on the upper edge and diagonally right up the wall with difficulty to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4-
Třetihorní věž
Briefly through the valley chimney between the tower and the massif and up the edge to… Rock Climbing

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