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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Třetihorní věž
Start on the upper edge and diagonally right up the wall with difficulty to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
Třetihorní věž
In the left part of the tower, in the chimney, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Třetihorní věž
In the right part of the tower, in the chimney, up the iron-rich wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Díra
Up the overhanging valley wall diagonally left over several hourglasses and via 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Díra
In the middle of the valley wall, via an overhang directly through a large hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Srnčí kámen
Up the V-edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Výběrový masív 2020
Along the edge via 2 bolts and right up the wall to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zlatej Slavík
Up the overhanging West edge and via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Srnčí kámen
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Srnčí kámen
Directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Srnčí kámen
Up the left upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Srnčí kámen
In the right part of the valley wall, diagonally left to the ring and from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Srnčí kámen
Up the rounded West edge directly (hourglasses) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Svatá Ludmila
From the gully in the far left part of the wall, up the slanted crack to the right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Svatá Ludmila
In the right part of the massif via the 'sokolík' and a crack over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Duch lesa
Through the crack over the ring and from the left to the top (n.t. - possibly 'na temeno'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Mutant
Up the S wall over 2 rings (K) to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Mutant
To the right of the "Mutation" route, over 2 bolt hangers (BH) to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Lupínek
Left in the S wall via the pillar and the wall (hourglasses) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lupínek
Along the valley edge to the balcony, up the gully (additional ring) and left along the W… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lupínek
Along the right NE edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Lupínek
Up the center of the S wall directly over the bolt hanger (BH), higher up from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
To
Up the center of the valley wall directly over the bolt hanger (BH) to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
2+
To
Up the short plateau chimney to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
4-
To
Briefly up the plateau pillar to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
4-
Zelený kámen
In the passage between the bunker and the tower via the slab wall to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
2+
Lupínek
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Zelený kámen
In the left part of the slab plateau wall to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
2
Lupínek
From the massif, descend and jump across to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Pohádkové bytosti
Up the wall to the right of the valley edge into the notch, traverse right and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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