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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Doveda
From the S chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Anti VK
From the tree on the SE side via friction climbing and a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Doveda
From the NW ridge traverse along the ledge to the left to the NE ridge and follow it to… Rock Climbing
2
Anti VK
From the S via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Anti VK
In the left part of the S face via a crack and higher up via a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sváteční věž
From the left to the center of the valley's N face and along it over 2 rings into the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Sváteční věž
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sváteční věž
With the edge to the balcony and via route d) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sváteční věž
From the valley wall via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the hourglass,… Rock Climbing
5
Sváteční věž
Via the plateau edge or by stemming to the sloping balcony, then by pushing up to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Sváteční věž
Start to the left of the "Plateau Edge" route, traverse to the NW edge to the hourglass.… Rock Climbing
4-
Sváteční věž
From the plateau side to the right over the ledge to the balcony and up the gully, higher… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Meniskus
To the left of the "For Two" route via a crumbling pedestal and directly up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Meniskus
Through the middle of the N face via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Meniskus
From the W via a crack to the pre-summit rock. Rock Climbing
5
Meniskus
In the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Meniskus
Via the SW overhanging edge over 2 pitons directly to the sloping ledge (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Meniskus
Up the wall to the right of the "For Two" route via 2 pitons and to the right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Meniskus
In the crack to the step and via the "DESCENT" route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolská věž
To the right of the "ASH ROUTE", via a delicate shallow groove and left into the hollow… Rock Climbing
6
Sokolská věž
In the right part of the valley wall via 2 rings diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Sokolská věž
In the left part of the plateau wall over the overhang and from the pedestal directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sokolská věž
Ascend to the SE edge, diagonally right to the ring of the "VALLEY ROUTE" and follow it… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolská věž
From the 1st ring of "SOKOL MEETS", diagonally left into the gully and follow it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sokolská věž
To the right in the plateau wall via the corner (ring) to the 2nd ring, then diagonally… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolská věž
To the left in the valley wall via cracks to the ring, up the wall and via the wall to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sokolská věž
Up the edge directly via the ring into the ledge and to the 2nd ring of "SOKOL MEETS" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sokolská věž
In the center of the plateau wall (triple stance) diagonally right into the niche and… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Sokolská věž
To the left of the "Ash Route" up the wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prase
Along the SW edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing

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