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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Sporný kámen
From the E via a chimney to a wide ledge and along it to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Sporný kámen
To the right in the N wall via 2 Rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Sporný kámen
Through the overhanging corner via 2 Rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Sporný kámen
Along carved steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sporný kámen
Along the valley SW edge into a short crack, traverse left into a small pedestal, up that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dědova věž
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sporný kámen
Along the fore-rock to the pine tree and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dědova věž
From the plateau, traverse left over a step and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dědova věž
Through the center of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dědova věž
Along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Umrlčí kámen
In the right part of the valley wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Umrlčí kámen
Through the center of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova věž
Along the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova věž
Through the center of the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Olešská věž
Along the Southeast Ridge route to the ring and from there left along the blunt edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Umrlčí kámen
Via the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Click Clack
Through the center of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Click Clack
Via the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Olešská věž
To the left in the valley wall, via a prominent pedestal over 3 rings, higher up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Umrlčí kámen
Through the narrow SW wall via a fault to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
6-
Olešská věž
In the right part of the valley wall through the chimney to the balcony, higher right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Olešská věž
From the upper edge into the corner, through it to the balcony and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Olešská věž
Left of the Old Route through a wide gully to the balcony and by the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Olešská věž
From the left along the SW edge (ring) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Olešská věž
Right of the Old Route through the corner to the ring. Diagonally right up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Olešská věž
Left in the W wall via the crack, from the right over the overhang and through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Olešská věž
Left of the South Route up the overhanging wall, higher by bracing to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Olešská věž
From the start of the 'Southwest Ridge' route, traverse left along the ledge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Olešská věž
Left of the 'Valley Route' up the stepped edge via 2 rings to the balcony, higher left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pécovka
To the right of the Sokolí krok route over the spires to the edge and easily to the… Rock Climbing

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