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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Houbařská věž
From the upper side to the left via a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Staromilec
In the middle of the SE face via a crack going left (Kinderköpfe) to the route end. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall +1
4+
Staromilec
In the middle of the SE face via a crack and rib to the route end. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Jehla v bivaku
In the right part of the SE face over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Jehla v bivaku
Via the corner and chimney from NE to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jehla v bivaku
Along the left valley edge over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Starý svět
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Starý svět
Up the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Starý svět
Up the prominent valley W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jehla v bivaku
Via the crack and chimney from SW to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Širý oceán
In the middle of the massif, straight up the wall directly over the bolt hanger (BH) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Širý oceán
In the left part of the S massif, up the delicate wall to an overgrown ledge and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Širý oceán
Via the crack in the SE wall to the bolt hanger (BH) and further via the crack that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce tábořiště
From the overgrown ledge near the SW edge, initially overhanging, higher up the sloping… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce tábořiště
On the N valley side to the left of the distinct gully, up the iron-stained wall into a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Strážce tábořiště
Straight up the center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce tábořiště
Along the SE rounded edge, higher up the sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Strážce tábořiště
From the bivouac, an overhanging wide crack to an overgrown ledge. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger Overhang
2+
Strážce tábořiště
Start in the center of the S wall, over the overhang (clock) to the ledge and up the斜… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce tábořiště
To the right in the uphill wall via a crack and an edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce tábořiště
From the uphill side, traverse left into the N wall (large clock). Up the steps to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zkamenělina
Up the upper/plateau wall over the ring bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zkamenělina
Left in the N wall, up the wall into the gully and through it or left along the edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Zkamenělina
Start in the NW wall by the crack and up the wall to the balcony, then directly up the… Rock Climbing
6
Zkamenělina
From the E side diagonally left into the S wall to the ring bolt. Up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zkamenělina
In the left part of the valley wall, by the crack to the ledge and directly over the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zkamenělina
Left of the "Old Route", initially by stemming, then directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sociální síť
From the W from the valley via a complex crack (hollow-sounding blocks) into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Poustevňátko
By the corner/flue in the N valley wall upwards to the ledge and right to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Poustevňátko
By a delicate corner/flue in the W valley wall to the balcony and by the "Southern Notch"… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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