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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Pécovka
To the right of the Sokolí krok route over the spires to the edge and easily to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pécovka
Via a diagonal crack around the W edge to the right onto a balcony (hourglass), higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pécovka
In the left part of the valley wall to the ring and left along the crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pécovka
From the plateau side directly below the abseil point to the summit Rock Climbing
6
Pécovka
Through the middle of the S wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Pécovka
From the east from the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pécovka
From the plateau side onto the adjacent block in the massif, a drop and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pasáček
From the stone along the SE edge to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Pasáček
Through the middle of the E wall (ring) to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pasáček
To the left in the valley wall along the edge (ring) to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pasáček
To the right in the valley wall, a wide crack, higher up the wall along a fissure to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pasáček
Up the plateau (S) wall to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Pasáček
From the forepeak, up the overhanging W edge to the summit (unsecured). Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Popovičský kámen
Up the wall below the abseil point to the summit Rock Climbing
4+
Popovičský kámen
To the left in the NW wall along a broken crack, higher up like the "Plateau Route" to… Rock Climbing
4+
Popovičský kámen
To the right in the SE wall, through a depression and directly up the wall to the summit Rock Climbing
4+
Popovičský kámen
Up the valley wall (hourglass), higher up via the Old Route to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Popovičský kámen
Directly up the overhanging plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Popovičský kámen
In the middle of the NW wall directly (loops) to the summit (pine tree) Rock Climbing
3
Houbařská věž
To the right of the Normal Route, along the rounded edge to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Houbařská věž
In the middle of the valley face via cracks (ring), higher up via the Chvaletická route… Rock Climbing
5
Houbařská věž
Along the SW edge diagonally right below the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Popovičský kámen
From the plateau edge along the ledge to the left, a long traverse to the balcony on the… Rock Climbing
5
Houbařská věž
To the right of the Western route via the wall diagonally right (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Houbařská věž
Via a small pillar to the edge and right over a loose block to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Houbařská věž
From the boulder in the middle of the plateau wall to the summit Rock Climbing
2+
Houbařská věž
From the upper side to the left via a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Houbařská věž
Directly up the wall to the ring and via the "At the Head of the Procession" route to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Houbařská věž
To the right of the Vatovec route over overhangs (2 bolts) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Houbařská věž
In the left part of the E face via a corner, traverse right into a hole. Up the wall … Rock Climbing

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