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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Drážďanský kužel
Through the crack along the valley edge over the ring and along the edge (2 BH) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Drážďanský kužel
From the saddle, traverse left, then lower and directly up the wall over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
4-
Drážďanský kužel
From the Long Wall, descend from the stance and abseil into the gully of the 'Dispute… Rock Climbing
5+
Drážďanský kužel
Left from the upper side, by stemming and (technical ascent) to the ring. By stemming and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Drážďanský kužel
Right from the saddle, by stemming to the ledge, traverse right to the ring. By technical… Rock Climbing
5+
Zelená jehla
From the upper edge diagonally left to the W edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zelená jehla
Along the upper edge, higher traverse right into the SE wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Davidův kámen
In the upper wall, by chimney/opposing forces to the ring. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zelená jehla
By wall via the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Davidův kámen
From the southern edge massif, by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Davidův kámen
In the left part of the E wall into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mechový císař
From the massif, traverse to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Křinický trpaslík
Right in the S wall to the ledge. Middle of the wall, higher diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Mechový císař
From the balcony, via the valley edge over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Křinický trpaslík
Through the valley chimney and up the wall along the W edge via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mechový císař
In the upper wall, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the ring and… Rock Climbing
3
Zadní Jetřichovický kužel
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Křinický trpaslík
From the massif, step over to the upper edge and to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Zadní Jetřichovický kužel
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Drbna
Middle of the valley wall directly to the ring and up the wall to the right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Všemilský hrot
From the upper side by the pine tree, via the NE edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Všemilský hrot
From the road through the indentation upwards to the hole (hourglass) and left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Všemilský hrot
By wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Všemilský hrot
Overhang from the boulder and via holes to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Svobodný kámen
To the right of the "Old Route" by the wall and an indentation directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Svobodný kámen
To the right of the route "From the Road", by the wall along the edge and along the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Svobodný kámen
In the middle of the valley SE wall, via a crack, higher via a chimney to the false… Rock Climbing
2+
Drbna
Upper edge from the chimney/crack n. v. (Without chimney, overhang to the edge - IV) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Svobodný kámen
In the middle of the valley SE wall directly above a large hole and to the right through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Světoví tuláci
In the right part of the upper wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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