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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Saská věž
Up the plateau edge via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Saská věž
From the massif jump to the tower and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Saská věž
To the right of route b) up the wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Černá lebka
From the block in the plateau wall traverse right (clockwise), into a shallow hollow and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Upír
Directly up the left plateau edge to the ring of the "Old Route" and via that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Černá lebka
In the right valley wall via the crack to the ring, higher up the wall to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4+
Černá lebka
From the block in the plateau wall by aid and by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Černá lebka
Up the wall along the left valley edge and right into the hole. Directly up the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Černá lebka
From the block in the plateau wall traverse left on the ledge (dK) and up the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Upír
Descend into the saddle via the gully and chimney from the massif. From the balcony in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Měšec
By the NE edge and (with aid) to the ring, then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Měšec
Up the plateau wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bohatý mlynář
As route b) up to the 2nd ring (without both aid placements). Diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing
5
Měšec
By the edge (ring) to a small ledge and (with aid) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
To the right on the North wall via an overhanging pillar to the ledge and left into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
By opposition between the tower and the massif, then via cracks in the massif to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
Briefly along the SW edge and (by climbing) to the 1st ring. Above the ring (by building)… Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
Along the NW edge of the massif, descend right to the ledge, then ascend from the… Rock Climbing
6
Bohatý mlynář
Along the plateau edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bohatý mlynář
Left of route a) to the balcony (ring). Ascend via climbing and wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Bohatý mlynář
At the start of route a), diagonally left to the platform and then left along it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
In the middle of the South wall, via the widening crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Completely to the right on the South wall, via the crack in the corner directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the W via the chimney, higher up like the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bohatý mlynář
Via the crack in the valley wall to the ledge and right to the ring. Via the crack, gully… Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
To the left on the North wall along the cracks, higher up via the chimney to the ledge of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the NE edge via a wide falcon crack to the ledge and to the right via a wide crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Start 2m left of the "Old Route" via the chimney to the first summit and step over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
Via a narrow chimney in the middle of the North wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen)
From the saddle via the right chimney to the pillar and diagonally left up the wall (or… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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