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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9/9+
Služebna
Through the center of the south face to the 1st BH, from there diagonally left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Služebna
Up the wall via a BH to the 2nd BH of the "Pomáhat a chránit" (To Help and Protect) route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Služebna
From the 1st BH of the Otvírák (Opener) route from the left via an overhang to the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Služebna
Through the gully in the valley wall directly to the BH, to the right and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Služebna
From the lowest point of the valley wall directly over 2 BHs, then along the wall with 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Služebna
In the left part of the valley wall from the small balcony over the BH directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Kuchyňský kout
Between the Kitchen Corner and the Row Massif, directly up the edge 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kuchyňský kout
Right of the route "Dog Kettle", up the wall with the help of the right edge 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Kuchyňský kout
Right of the route "Buried Dog", up the wall 2 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
In the right part of the north face, 1st BH, diagonally left 2nd BH and directly along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
Middle of the northwest face directly 3 BH and traverse left to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
Left in the northwest face, directly up the wall 1 BH, from the left 2 BH and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
In the north face, right of the big corner, up the wall 4 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kuchyňský kout
Middle of the north face 4 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Kuchyňský kout
In the north face, right of the route "Boys in Action", up the wall 3 BH, to the right is… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
Right of the route "Yes Boss" up the wall and edge 3BH to the rappel point, see photo. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Kuchyňský kout
Left of the route "Noble Mold" up the wall and corner 4 BH and overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Kuchyňský kout
Completely on the left of the massif by the wall (BH) slightly from the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Ztracený kamarád
Right up the edge of the massif and left by the ceiling (BH) into the south face and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Boubín
In the middle of the massif, via a double crack into a cave and left via a crack in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Myslivecká věž
From the saddle, traverse right along the ledges, descend to a balcony. In the valley… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Ztracený kamarád
From the rock to the left, via the roof (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Myslivecká věž
Along the left valley edge past a bolt to the ring of the Halali route. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Myslivecká věž
To the left of the Halali route, up the wall past 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Myslivecká věž
Start like the Šoulačka route. Then diagonally left to the crack of the 'Halali' route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Myslivecká věž
Via the left crack in the valley wall to its end, traverse left and up the wall to a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Myslivecká věž
To the right in the valley wall, via the crack over the overhang to a bolt. Right at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Myslivecká věž
Far right on the valley side (from NW) through a break, along the edge clockwise and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Myslivecká věž
To the left of the bolt, up a small wall into a gully and via it to the ledges. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Myslivecká věž
Up the wall along the right valley edge past 2 bolts and higher up via the Šoulačka route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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