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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Sirotek
From the 1st bolt of the 'Děti máje' route, right and along the edge to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Prďola
Left of 'Cirkus' along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prďola
In the right part of the South wall to K. Up the wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Prďola
From the edge via 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Prďola
Via the 'Malý pivo' route to the 1st bolt, then directly up the wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Prďola
Through the center of the North wall via 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing
2+
Prďola
Left of the 'Cirkus' route, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Altán
To the right of the route 'Zázrak přírody' (Miracle of Nature), up a small wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Belveder
In the right part of the wall over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Belveder
To the left of the route 'Saša jede', up the wall over 2 bolts to the rappelling point… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Belveder
Completely to the left on the S terrace, on the SW corner of the tower. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Belveder
To the left of the 'Around the World' route, up the wall directly to the BH (bolt hanger)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Sarajevská stěna
Approx. 6m to the right of the S corner via a crack and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sarajevská stěna
In the right part of the valley wall, via an indistinct edge over 4 BHs under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sarajevská stěna
From the 6th BH of the Austro-Hungarian route, the left branch directly to the top to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5+
Sarajevská stěna
Up the wall and crack to the right of the start of the "Seven Bullets" route via 6 BHs to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Umbamba
Up the middle of the wall of the right pillar over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing
6-
Umbamba
Along the edge of the pillar over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Umbamba
Up the middle of the wall directly over 4 BH and further over 7 BH of the "Soft movers"… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Umbamba
Along the Tatonka route for approx. 20m and to the right up the wall over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Umbamba
Along the "Tatonka" route, about 15m up, then to the right up the wall over 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the lower massif, along the right overhanging edge over 3 BH to the rappel. (SBH). See… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the lower massif, up the middle of the wall directly over two BH to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Stěna bratří Weingartlů
On the lower massif, from the crack up the wall directly 1 BH, further left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sopka
From the valley to the left of the descent chimney, via the right edge over a ring to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zlomisková věž
Like the 'Old Route', to the edge, right and via a rib, higher up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
3
Zlomisková věž
From the massif, over a wedged boulder to the NE edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zlomisková věž
Via an overhang to the SE edge and directly up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Zlomisková věž
From the massif, traverse (overhang) to the SE edge, traverse left to the SW edge and… Rock Climbing
4-
Zlomisková věž
Like the 'East Route', from the wedged boulder, traverse left to the SW edge and follow… Rock Climbing

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