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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Čertova hlava
From the start of the route "Path of the Sages of Zion" via the crack to the first ledge.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Čertova hlava
Along the valley edge to the balcony and via a small ridge to K. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Čertova hlava
From the NW through a crack to the balcony and up the overhanging edge over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Čertova hlava
From the W over the overhang, up the wall and slab over BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Čertova hlava
Along the SE edge to the 1st K and the wall to the right onto the ledge (loop). Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Čertova hlava
From the lowest point on the valley side at the blunt edge, traverse the slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Čertova hlava
From the boulder on the SW side to the catwalk and over the overhang to a small platform.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Čertova hlava
From the start of "Stará cesta" directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Čertova hlava
From the uphill side traverse left to the catwalk, along it left to the NW side. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Čertova hlava
From the saddle diagonally right to the catwalk. Over the overhang and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Loď mrtvých
As 'Příběh s bombou' to the balcony and left to the 1st K. Through the crack over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Loď mrtvých
About 4 m right of the start of 'Zrození boha' up the wall directly over BH to K. Briefly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Loď mrtvých
From the start of the route "Koupě osla" to the left up the wall over BH and a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Loď mrtvých
About 3.5 m right of the corner, to the left of the iron-streaked wall and slab over BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Loď mrtvých
To the right of the start of the route 'Modern Talking', up the wall through a hole (BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Loď mrtvých
About 10 m through the corner and gully. Step left to BH above the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Loď mrtvých
Above the overhang directly over 2 K to the abseil BH. > To: "jenik. pleticha" > Date:… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Loď mrtvých
Start up the wall through a hole (BH) and diagonally right over the overhang to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Loď mrtvých
As the route 'Hází mámu z vlaku' to the 1st BH. Diagonally right into the corner to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Loď mrtvých
To the right of the route 'Generál přichází z džungle' from the boulder at the blunt edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Loď mrtvých
4 m right of the starting corner of the route 'Hází mámu z vlaku', briefly up to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Loď mrtvých
In a large corner with a wall and ribs over BH and K diagonally right into the corner.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Loď mrtvých
Together with the route 'Throws Mother from the Train', through the corner up to a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Loď mrtvých
From the left valley edge, traverse right to a blunt edge (BH). Along the blunt, laid… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Loď mrtvých
Start from a step to the left on the slope behind the left valley edge. Briefly through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Loď mrtvých
In the left part of the massif, 2 m to the left of the left valley edge, through a corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
De Bill
NW along the left overhanging edge over 5 BH to a ledge to K (rappel). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
De Bill
Wall to the right of the 'Souvlaky' route over 3 BH diagonally right to the 4th BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
De Bill
Overhanging NW wall 4 m to the right of the 'Pita' route directly over 5 BH to a ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
De Bill
On the lower pillar, up the right small ridge to the end, over BH onto the slab and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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