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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kamenný mužík
About 4m right of "Valley Chimney" via a crack and a fissure to the balcony. Right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kamenný mužík
In the large corner from the valley side via a chimney between the tower and the pre-rock… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kamenný mužík
2 m right of the Valley Chimney, directly up the wall via BH into a small crack and onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kamenný mužík
Like "Short Dance of Freedom" to the balcony and left along the edge to 1st K. Further to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Kamenný mužík
Like "SW face" diagonally right over the balcony and further along the ramp right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Kamenný mužík
At the W edge of the main tower up the steps, then about 4 m diagonally right across the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Kamenný mužík
In the middle of the SW face in a corner upwards and right to the saddle. "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Kamenný mužík
From the plateau side, up a stepped wall diagonally left into the SW face and up it to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Kamenný mužík
All the way to the right on the SW side via an oblique chimney to the block and like … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Trezor
To the right of the passage between Malá skříň (Small Cabinet) and Trezor (Vault), to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Malá skříň
Like Midnight Lightning to K. Directly along the edge to the ledge (hours) and left to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Malá skříň
From K Nová cesta without placing on the edge and wall to the ledge, traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Malá skříň
Up the center of the E wall over the BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Malá skříň
Along the SE edge to K. Slightly right up the wall to the ledge and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Malá skříň
From the base of the NW wall along the N edge to the pinnacle below K of the New Route.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Malá skříň
In the E wall diagonally right to K. (By building/standing) onto the ledge and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Malá skříň
Up the center of the NW wall to the ledge to K of the "NW Route". Overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Malá skříň
From the edge to the ledge and along it traverse the NW wall to the left over K to the N… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Malá skříň
As "South Edge" a leap, traverse right into the center of the plateau wall to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Malá skříň
From the edge to the BH and directly up the wall to K of the Dream Route. Slightly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Malá skříň
Via the Sokolik (arete/pillar) in the SW wall to its end and left to K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Malá skříň
On the massif (Trezor) to the right of the passage between the edges, up a crack, a drop… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Malá skříň
From the plateau on the massif, a drop to the ledge of the Old Route and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
?
Malá skříň
From the plateau in the massif (rappel BH), a leap to the S edge of the tower onto the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Malá skříň
To the left in the plateau wall with a double stance or a direct drop from the massif to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Almara
3m to the left of the route "Memory of Jizerky" via a crack and diagonally left through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Almara
In the right part of the massif via the pillar directly over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Almara
On the right pillar via the left edge (to the left of the route Shadow...) over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Almara
In the right part of the massif via a crack in the corner K, higher up through the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Almara
From the 1st BH of the route Feast of Light up the wall over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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