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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Večernice
From the plateau side, traverse along the ledge to the right around the East edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Večernice
On the plateau wall, right to the East edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
As 'North Edge' into the NE face and directly up its center to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
Directly up the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Večernice
From the plateau side, via the left edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
From the plateau side, to the left between the fore-summits of Strážce Dolního žlebu and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce Dolního Žlebu
Up the center of the valley wall through the crack to the end (bolt), right behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Hlídač
Up the center of the valley wall over 5 bolts and a knot (K.) to the terrace. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hlídač
Along the left valley edge over 6 bolts to the summit (rappel anchor). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Suchá stěna
Up the center of the NW wall via the 1st bolt and 2nd bolt, from the left to the 3rd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Along the crack in the valley edge to the end (1st bolt K) and along the wall (2nd bolt K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Along the Panta rhei route via the ring to the 2nd bolt (K). From there, very slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
Up the center of the S face along a fine crack, later via a crack over 7BH. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
To the right in the S wall via BH into the crack, along it (3BH) to the end and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Dolnožlebská vyhlídka
On the NW wall from the terrace to the right of the Igor Hnízdo route via 3 BH to the 5th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
9/9+
Mravenčí stěna
Via the Urvanej ze řetězu (Torn from the Chain) route to the BH and from there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mravenčí stěna
Up the narrow east face directly to the 1st BH, from the left and higher directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mravenčí stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the corner crack to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing
5+
Mravenčí stěna
In the right part of the wall from the balcony via 3 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Mravenčí stěna
To the right of the crack up the wall via a bolt to the 2nd bolt of the Hang-on-dog route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Mravenčí stěna
In the middle of the wall along the crack via a BH and to the right onto a balcony to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Mravenčí stěna
From the BH of the Běženec (Runner) route directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Mravenčí stěna
From the first BH of the Hang on Dog route, up the small pillar to the end and into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mravenčí stěna
In the left part of the wall, slightly to the right, via 4 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Mravenčí stěna
From the corner (boulders) up the wall via two BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Proton
Start right of the route "NIC MOC" up the crack to the balcony (boulders in the saddle)… Rock Climbing
5+
Proton
From S, take the right of the two cracks to a large balcony in the valley wall, traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Proton
In the valley wall via BH to the ledge (K), right onto the edge and along it via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Proton
As 'Valley Edge' via BH and K to the ledge, traverse left and directly up the wall via 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Proton
As 'Spark of Hope', up the corner for about 4m, then traverse right (BH) into the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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