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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Zloděj
To the left in the overhanging wall by a crack to the terrace and by the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
2+
Zloděj
From S by the chimney between the tower and the massif to the terrace and the S edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Aréna odsouzenců
In the left part of the wall along the edge and over the overhang (3 BH) to the anchor.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Aréna odsouzenců
In the right part by the wall, corner and to the right over the overhang (4 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Aréna odsouzenců
Through the middle of the wall (4 BH) over the overhang to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Soudce
To the right in the S wall and further along the edge over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Soudce
From the 3rd BH of the "Might Makes Right" route, straight through the gully over a BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Soudce
Through the middle of the S wall, later to the left along the edge over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Soudce
To the right of the "Electric Chair" route, by a blunt edge over 4 BH and over the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Soudce
To the left of the Paragraph route, by the right overhanging edge, later straight up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Soudce
By the right part of the wall over 5 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Soudce
In the middle of the wall, by a corner and wall over 3 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Soudce
In the middle of the overhanging wall (to the right of the Military Court route) over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Soudce
In the left part of the overhanging wall, by a rib and wall over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Soudce
To the left of the "Third Guard" route, by the crack and wall to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Soudce
By crack and blunt edge over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Soudce
Start with a crack to the left of the S edge (1st BH), to the right by the wall (2nd BH),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Soudce
In the S wall from the sloping ramp traverse to the right to the 1st BH and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Malý pitaval
By the wall at the right edge over 3 BH to the anchor. BH. On the right by the chimney is… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Soudce
To the right of the Self-arrest route, by the wall over 2 BH to the rappel anchor of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Malý pitaval
To the right of the A Little Excitement route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Soudce
To the left of the "Public Works" route, a corner on the pillar and to the left over 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Malý pitaval
To the right of the Šperhák route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Malý pitaval
To the left of the Šperhák route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malý pitaval
Near the left edge and higher, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Malý pitaval
In the left part of the massif, from the terrace, use the thin crack, then higher, follow… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Malá bašta
Left of the right edge to the 1st ring, up the wall past the 2nd ring to the gully. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Malá bašta
Up the third crack from the right onto the large platform and up the corner crack past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Malá bašta
Up the crack as for "Jasná zpráva" and left up the wall to the balcony to the bolt (K).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Malá bašta
In the center of Malá Bašta, up the prominent corner crack past a bolt (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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