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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Alcatraz
From the 1st BH of the route "Factor X", to the right up the wall via 4 BH to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Alcatraz
Slightly sloping wall to the left of the large corner via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Alcatraz
To the left of the "Ass to the Wall" route, via the wall through 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Alcatraz
Wall to the right of the "Factor X" route via 6 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Alcatraz
Start completely in the left part of the wall with a diagonally running crack. Through it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Alcatraz
Up the wall to the left of the route "Faktor X", first directly and then to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Šerif
Through the center of the narrow NE wall. Then over the overhang and along the gully (6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Šerif
From the 1st BH of the route "Pověste ho vejš" (Hang him higher), up the small crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Šerif
To the left of the downhill V edge, up the wall to the left via 4 BH under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Šerif
Downhill along the crack to the corner, over the small overhang, up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Šerif
In the left part of the wall, start in the corner. Then up the slab and crack over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Vorvaň
From the start, chimney and left up the overhanging wall via 4 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Vorvaň
On the right in the downhill wall, briefly along the edge, then up the wall via 4 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Šerif
To the left of the route "Díra ve zdi" (Hole in the Wall), up the wall along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Vorvaň
From the 1st BH of the route "Orca", traverse along the edge of the overhang to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Bábovka
Up the wall and higher up the edge (3 BH) to the balcony to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Tunel
To the right of the route "Dilatační spára", up the wall and edge (5 Bh) to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Vorvaň
To the left of the route "Mavericks", up the wall, corner and slab via 4 BH to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Vorvaň
To the left of "Modré hlubiny" (Blue Depths), up the wall via 4 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Tunel
To the left of the route "Dilatační spára" (Expansion Joint), up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Tunel
In the northern wall, up the groove and crack via 2 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tunel
Like "Dilatační spára", above the 1st BH diagonally to the left (2nd BH) into the shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tunel
From the large block up the wall via 4 BH to hourglasses. Right into the gully (left 5th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Tunel
About 2 m to the right of the large block up the wall, then along the crack and higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Tunel
Through the center of the left wall via 4 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Tunel
From the left to the large block (BH) in front of the cave on the SE side of the massif.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tunel
To the left of the large block on the SE side of the massif, up the wall along cracks… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Tunel
3 m to the right of "Rosa na kolejích", up the wall along the crack (2 BH) to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Kriminál
Completely in the right part of the massif, up the crack in the N face 1st BH over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Tunel
Between routes. Tunnelled holds and "Rosa na kolejích" (Rosa on Rails) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3

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