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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Ratejna
In the right part of the wall over 2 K (knots/chocks) and from the left through a gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Ratejna
Left of the "The Edge" route, up the east wall past 5 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Železný Zekon
In the right part of the valley wall, past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Ratejna
In the left part of the wall, through a corner, higher up a crack directly to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ratejna
Left edge of the massif over 4 BH (bolts). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Železný Zekon
Approximately in the middle of the valley wall, from the block up the wall slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Železný Zekon
Along the S edge past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Železný Zekon
Along the E edge past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Rybářská bašta
In the right part of the massif (right of the "Flying Česmír" route) up the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Rybářská bašta
In the right part of the massif, up the corner to a balcony (sling) and up the wall past… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Rybářská bašta
Between the routes "Létající Čestmír" (Flying Čestmír) and "Rybí prsty" (Fish Fingers)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Rybářská bašta
Along the right edge past 5 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Rybářská bašta
From the 3rd bolt of the Rybí prsty (Fish Fingers) route, left up the wall past 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Rybářská bašta
Start in the right part with a distinctive small falcon over a bolt to a ledge. Then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Rybářská bašta
Right of the "Eels Don't Migrate" route, from the base up the wall past 3 bolts to its… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Rybářská bašta
Same as "Eels Don't Migrate" to the 2nd ring from the "Vorvanej vorvan" route and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Rybářská bašta
Up the route "When Eels Migrate" and traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Rybářská bašta
Start from the base (bolt) and up the wall past 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the route … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Rybářská bašta
From the base, climb onto a subtle ledge and traverse left into a small falcon. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Rybářská bašta
Like Zaoceánské bublinky (Transoceanic Bubbles) to the 7th bolt, then straight up past 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Rybářská bašta
Up the edge past 6 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Východní roh
From Hulící's salon along the southern edge over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Chimney n. v Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Rybářská bašta
Right of the chimney between Eastern Corner and Fisherman's Bastion, up the corner crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Východní roh
Up the crack in the S wall almost to its end, traverse left and up the "Hockey Sticks"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Východní roh
From the 1st ring of "Corrida", up the wall past 6 bolts to a large balcony. Freely to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Východní roh
From the SE up the wall, or from the N into the gully on the S side of the tower, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Východní roh
Start with a crack through the overhang, then up the wall and edge past 8 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Východní roh
From the large balcony on the right, an overhanging edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Východní roh
Downhill edge over 7 BH to the 3rd K of the “Child of Time” route, along it over the 4th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Východní roh
From the left to the SE edge and along it to the 1st K. Diagonally to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3

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