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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Kazatel
To the left of the Cathedral, through the corner over 2 BH to the terrace and further up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kazatel
To the right of the X-ray route, through the corner and left up the wall (5 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kazatel
Via the "Immoral Offer" route over the 5th BH to the balcony to the 6th BH (stance). From… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Kazatel
To the right of the "X-ray" route (4 BH) to the shelf. Briefly along the X-ray route and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kazatel
Through the large corner to the balcony (stance). Further left via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8-/8
Kazatel
In the right part of the valley wall, ascend to the lower corner of the X-ray route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Kazatel
Through the crack of the Pandora's Box route (BH) to the end and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Kazatel
To the right of the notch of the "Word of God" route, up the wall over 14 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Kazatel
Through the crack in the center of the wall (BH), later left up the wall over 3 K and 2.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Kazatel
To the left of the "Pandora's Box" route, through the break, higher up a crack to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Kazatel
At the left edge up the face over 7 K to the small balcony. Chimney to the edge (8th K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kazatel
To the left of the "Words of God" route, diagonally right up a tapering crack, higher up… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kazatel
To the left of the "Words of God" route, up the face slightly right over 7 BH. Left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Kardinál
Up the face to the right of the valley corner over 5 BH to the balcony to the 6th BH. The… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kardinál
Via the "Savior" route over 5 BH to the balcony and further along the edge over 6 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Kardinál
Start together with the "Savior" route over 5 BH to the balcony, further upwards from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Kardinál
Up the corner to the right of "Edge of the Cardinals" 40m to the cave (belay). Over loose… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kardinál
Up the right corner about 6 m and directly up the face to the 1st K of The Way to Power.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kardinál
From the start of the "Right Corner" route, left to the edge, along it (BH) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Kardinál
Up the corner to the block and left to the 1st BH. Further up the face to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kardinál
To the left of "The Way to Power" up the face along the edge to the BH of "The Way to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Kardinál
In an indistinct corner in the South face (2 BH) to the ledge to the 1st K. Through the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kardinál
In the left corner, chimney up the steps to the platform. Wide corner crack under the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Kardinál
In the corner at the valley edge to the platform (1st K). Along the edge over 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Kardinál
From the lowest point of the valley face along the edge over 3 BH to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Kardinál
Via the "Cardinal Crack" route and left up the face over 2 BH. Briefly along the edge of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Kardinál
From the 4th K of the Satan and Death route diagonally right to the balcony (5th K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Kardinál
Like "Cardinal Crack" ca. 8m upwards and right along the edge over 3 K to the 4th K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Mnich
Via the "Old Route" to the ledge, traverse diagonally left to the edge and then to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mnich
Through the center of the West face over 2 K to the balcony. By the corner of the "New… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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