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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Skulptura
In the right part of the wall via bh. and diagonally left up the wall into the crack "I… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Skulptura
In the left part of the E wall via bh. to the ledge and traverse right into the crack "I… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Památník Rabštejn
Center of the valley wall along a small edge to the ledge and up the wall via BH and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Památník Rabštejn
Along the slanting edge via BH, small wall to the ledge and directly n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Skulptura
Center of the E wall via bh. directly into the crack and left to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hell's Kitchen
In the middle of the valley wall, under the largest overhang, up a dirty, crumbly wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
8-/8
Suchý mech
In the right part of the valley wall, along the edge over 1. K and through the ceiling… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Pole neoraný
Center of the E wall and under the bioflora with an arc from the right n. t. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Ledová hora
In the center of the wall, at a wide crack, over the overhang and diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Skladiště
To the right of the route "Novičok" from the right wall to the ring. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Skladiště
Center of the wall via a ring under overhang 2. K and diagonally left over it. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skladiště
In the left part of the wall directly into a short corner (sling), through it and from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Olešský boulder blok
West edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Olešský boulder blok
Wall in the right part of the North wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Olešský boulder blok
Wall in the middle of the South wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Skladiště
Through the middle of the wall easily to a ledge (sling) and up the overhanging wall from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Olešský boulder blok
Through the center of the North wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Olešský boulder blok
Wall in the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Olešský boulder blok
Via a crack through the center of the South wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Olešský boulder blok
Wall in the right part of the South wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8+/9-
Podloubí
Through a crack in the overhanging wall below the roof (ring), from the right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Deska na kobylce - západní vrchol
Through the center of the Southwest wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
From the South, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Deska na kobylce - západní vrchol
West edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
Southwest wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
In the center of the S wall, around the gully/notch to the balcony, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Deska na kobylce - západní vrchol
Left in the Northeast wall, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
From the East, from the block, up the wall via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
To the left in the N wall, along the hollow (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
Up the wall completely to the right in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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