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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Kominíček
Northwards, via a crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kominíček
Up the valley crack (clock), higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kominíček
Via the left upland (NE) edge, higher up to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kominíček
About 3 m to the right of the "Edge of the Atomic Age" route, directly up the wall (clock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesní kaple
From the start of the "Branecká cesta" route, straight up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skoba
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle. Along the left upland… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Skoba
By jumping from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Skoba
Via the Old Route to the saddle and then a chimney with opposition technique along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Skoba
From the left onto the left valley edge and then along that, past 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lesní kaple
Up the wall 6 m to the right of the "Old Route" to a niche and traverse to the edge of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lesní kaple
From the north, via a blunt edge past 2 rings to a crack in the rock window and then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Lesní kaple
From the north, via a dirty crack, or from the west, via a chimney to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lesní kaple
In the middle of the valley wall, via a ring to a rock window, crawl through the window… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lesní kaple
Eastwards up the wall, past a ring to a ledge, left to the edge and then up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lesní kaple
Up the wall below the abseil point, over the overhang to a crack (clock), up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Lesní kaple
In the right part of the north face, a short crack and then diagonally left up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Lesní kaple
To the right of the "Old Route" chimney, diagonally left up the wall to a balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lesní kaple
In the left part of the plateau wall via the chimney to the balcony and directly or to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Filipovská věž
Along the left plateau edge (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Filipovská věž
In the middle of the plateau wall over the rib and difficult up the wall to the summit … Rock Climbing
5
Památník Rabštejn
In the left part of the valley wall, via a corner crack over the watches (slings) n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Památník Rabštejn
In the left part of the valley SE wall, via a blunt edge over the ring and ledge n. t. -… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Filipovská věž
Along the left valley edge, higher up the wall diagonally right over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Památník Rabštejn
To the left of the route "Excessive Merriment", directly up the wall n. t. (Common… Rock Climbing Danger
5
Filipovská věž
Directly up the center of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Filipovská věž
To the right in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Památník Rabštejn
Up the wall to the right of "Excessive Merriment" via BH and directly to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Filipovská věž
Center of the valley wall via a ring and overhang to the ledge and left up the wall into… Rock Climbing
4+
Památník Rabštejn
In the right part of the valley wall, via a distinctive notch and a corner crack (slings)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Památník Rabštejn
In the right part of the wall, along the edge under the overhang-nose, from the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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