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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Společná věž
From the uphill side, a long traverse left along the ledge to the NW edge and then build… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tuláček
Up the uphill edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Četník
From the S or N, climb the chimney to the sub-peak, (then build a stack of rocks) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Četník
From the right to the SW edge, then straight up (clockwise) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Četník
Straight up the middle of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Tuláček
Traverse left along the ledge on the SE face to the edge. Diagonally right below the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Voldříšek
On the left side of the S face, diagonally right through the crack and left along the rib… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
4-
Voldříšek
From the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tuláček
From the uphill side, traverse right and follow the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Voldříšek
Like the 'Diagonal' route, straight through the crack and over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Voldříšek
On the left in the S wall, through an overhanging crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Voldříšek
To the right of the E edge, follow the wall to a ring, then up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Voldříšek
To the left of the Mirror Route, up the wall (below the abseil) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Voldříšek
Like the 'Direct Truss' route, about 2 m upwards and left over the hours, up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Voldříšek
Start via the South route higher up the crack (bolt), then right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Voldříšek
In the upper wall, diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Voldříšek
In the center of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bludný kámen
Left of the 'Mossy Corner', along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bludný kámen
From the NE edge, up the corner and a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bludný kámen
Right of the 'Mossy Corner', along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bludný kámen
Left of the 'Old Route', along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bludný kámen
Right of the 'Old Route', up the overhanging wall directly to the platform and then… Rock Climbing
6
Bludný kámen
Up the overhanging SW edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Bludný kámen
From the left, up the E wall to the platform and then directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce louky (Petrova skála)
From the saddle, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce louky (Petrova skála)
From the saddle, diagonally right to the N edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce louky (Petrova skála)
From the wall, via 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž Pavly (Jehla Koliště)
From the right side of the south face, via the ring to the balcony, and up the face via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Strážce louky (Petrova skála)
Up the south face, then higher up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce louky (Petrova skála)
From the saddle, traverse left into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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