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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Medvědí kámen
In the right part of the north face, over the ring to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Medvědí kámen
Southwest edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Medvědí kámen
Through the middle of the north face, crack to the ring and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Medvědí kámen
In the middle of the south face, through a crack to the ring and directly up the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Medvědí kámen
Left crack in the south face to the balcony and "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Medvědí kámen
From S (South) to the saddle. Climb the wall to the balcony and (by stacking - using… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Medvědí kámen
Right crack in the south face and "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Schovaná jehla
From the left valley edge, climb the wall to the ring and up the right edge over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Maják 2
In the center of the SE (Southeast) wall over the hourglass feature to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Maják 2
V (East) wall (hourglass feature) over K (Key point?) n. v. (not verified?). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Maják 2
At the valley edge to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Maják 2
From S (South), climb the wall along the edge (2 BH - bolts) n. v. (not verified?). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Schovaná jehla
Climb the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
In the center of the W (West) wall below the rappel, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rys
Climb the upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rys
In the center of the upper wall, climb the chimney with stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rys
Climb the valley edge to K (Key point?) and slightly from the left over BH (bolt) n. v. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Rys
From the massif, descend to the left along the edge, traverse right to the ledge, jump to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rys
On the left in the upper wall, climb the chimney with stemming and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
On the right in the W (West) wall, climb over the overhang to the ridge and follow it to… Rock Climbing
2
Spící ještěr
From J (South), climb the ridge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
On the right in the W (West) wall, climb the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Spící ještěr
Completely on the left in the V wall, climb the wall to the ridge and follow it to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Spící ještěr
To the left of the Dámský zářez (Ladies' Notch), climb the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
On the left in the V wall, climb the wall to the ridge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Spící ještěr
To the right of the "Panské spáry" route, climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Spící ještěr
At the prominent edge in the V wall, upwards into the notch and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Spící ještěr
Left of the S edge, climb the wall to the ring and slightly diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
Along the ridge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Spící ještěr
To the right of the Ještěří cesta route, climb the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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