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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Peřiňák
Along the right edge of the W wall over two hourglasses and left to the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pohovka
Valley (W) edge and chimney over the ring into the crack (2nd ring), through it and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pohovka
NW chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Peřiňák
From the block in the S wall, up the wall left to the SW edge and along it over 2 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Pohovka
In the right part of the valley wall along the edge over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Klášterní jehla
In the left part of the N wall diagonally left into the chimney, through it to the end,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Klášterní jehla
Left along the W edge over the hourglass to the ring. Up the wall and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Klášterní jehla
From the upland side into the crack and to the ring. From the ring (building) left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Klášterní jehla
Along the edge of the adjacent massif, descend around the ring into the dihedral.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Klášterní jehla
In the right part of the SE wall diagonally right to the edge to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Stolička
From the South, up the wide crack and through the crawlspace under the boulder, further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stolička
In the West face, diagonally right to the ring and up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stolička
In the North face, over the overhang, up the gully past the BH and friction climb to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Stolička
Like the West face 2m up, then right up the face directly over the small overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Stolička
From the South, up the chimney, higher left to the point. Step over to the edge, along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stolička
Up the narrow chimney in the North face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Stolička
Left in the West face, up the face to the left to the sloping balcony (rappel ring), up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stolička
In the North face, up the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the face to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sedm piv
Southwest summit: From the North, over the overhang and up the edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Sedm piv
Southwest summit: From the saddle (South) directly up the edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedm piv
Southwest summit: From the saddle diagonally right up the face. Rock Climbing
5+
Sedm piv
On the left in the N face, through the wall past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sedm piv
Through the center of the N face, past a bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sedm piv
In the right part of the N face, through the wall past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sedm piv
On the E face, around the detached flake (bolt), higher up the smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sedm piv
Along the overhanging edge (3 slings) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Sedm piv
From the N, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedm piv
Southwest summit: Directly up the center of the West face. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedm piv
Through the chimney from the W to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sedm piv
Through the upper wall, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing

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