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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Žlučový kámen
Up the plateau (east) edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Žlučový kámen
Up the east face along the edge over 2 BH (slings) and from the right through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Fasáda
Up the crack in the center of the west face for about 4m and diagonally to the right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Fasáda
In the center of the west face up the crack to its end to a ring, higher directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Akademická věž
In the plateau face up the gully to the saddle, from there up the face along the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Akademická věž
Start to the left of the "Old Route" gully, up the face higher to the arched southeast… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Fasáda
From the balcony in the south face up the face along the southwest edge to friction (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zvíře
Down the 3rd crack (left) to the balcony, traverse left above the balcony right over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zvíře
Up the right chimney of the south face under the wedged boulder and right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zvíře
From the plateau side through the window into the downhill face and right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zvíře
Up the crack to the left of the Right Crack route to a ring / shared with the Right Crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zvíře
Up the left crack of the south face over a rock window to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zvíře
In the narrow west face to a platform, (building) and the face to a platform below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zvíře
Start to the left of the "Old Route", through a crack to the balcony and the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zvíře
To the right of the left chimney of the south face, through a crack and corner, higher to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zvíře
Up the right crack of the south face to a ring and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zvíře
Up the northwest edge over numerous slings to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zvíře
Up the left chimney of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zvíře
To the left of the right chimney of the South face, follow the crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pidlík
Through the center of the North face (to the right of the chimney) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pidlík
From the left onto the West edge and along it to the ring. Climb the wall diagonally to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kamzičí kužel
From the beginning of the double crack of the Západní cesta (Western Route), traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pidlík
Through the chimney from the approach or from the valley side to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kamzičí kužel
From the uphill side, follow the double crack and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kamzičí kužel
Near the NW edge, follow the rib and the wall directly to the crack of the Severozápadní… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamzičí kužel
From the approach on the side, traverse left to the crack, follow it to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamzičí kužel
From the saddle, follow the ledge to the right and the edge to the balcony. Stará cesta … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kamzičí kužel
Double crack in the North face to the crack of the Stará cesta (Old Route), follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kamzičí kužel
In the valley-facing wall, follow the crack to the ledge and then the center of the South… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kamzičí kužel
Along the SE edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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