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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Osecká věž
Up the wall over the ring into the chimney crack and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Osecká věž
Up the middle of the valley wall over the ring (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Opuštěná věž
From the upland area, to the right of the upland edge, over the overhang and up the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Opuštěná věž
From the valley (N) side, up the crack between the tower and the foreland, then via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Opuštěná věž
Traverse from the upland side left to the platform on the SW edge and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Opuštěná věž
From the NW, up the crack and wall over the overhang to the platform, traverse right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opuštěná věž
Up the Upland face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Borůvčí kámen
About 5 m to the left of the Náhorní cesta (Upland Route), straight up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Opuštěná věž
From the upland area, traverse left behind the edge and directly up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Opuštěná věž
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall to the platform and via the Traverse Route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Opuštěná věž
Up the SW edge to the platform and via the Traverse Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Borůvčí kámen
Left of the West edge, at the base of the tower, up the face diagonally left and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Borůvčí kámen
From the ledge, center of the valley-facing wall over the BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Borůvčí kámen
Up the uphill edge to the hourglasses, traverse left across the entire face and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Borůvčí kámen
From the West edge over the overhang to the platform and on to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Borůvčí kámen
Up the NE edge, higher up slightly to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Borůvčí kámen
From the beginning of the traverse directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Up the uphill edge over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
From the NE edge up the face diagonally left (ring) to the small corner and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
From the NE edge diagonally right and up the gully directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Borůvčí kámen
SW face and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Left of the SE edge, up the face to the big hourglasses and to the right to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Center of the uphill (S) face to the ledge, long traverse left into the valley face.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Old route to the ledge and left to the hourglasses. Bridging over the overhang, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Start at the base of the NW edge, up the crack and left along the edge to the ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Over the overhanging valley-facing (S) edge past the hourglasses to the ring. Straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kužel Vilemíniny stěny
Center of the overhanging valley-facing wall diagonally left over the ring into the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the indistinct pillar in the center of the upper wall to the ring and with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Malé žluté cimbuří
In the right part of the East face, climb the wall diagonally to the right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the Northwest edge (2 rings), position yourself to the left on the edge and follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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