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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Hraběnka
From the left (South) edge (ring), up the wall to the ring of route b) and follow that to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hraběnka
From the left exposed (South) edge, traverse into the West wall to the ring and with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hraběnka
In the exposed wall to the ring and (liebacking) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Přední věž
The Downhill and Southeast routes can be connected by a traverse at the height of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dětská věž
From the north or south by the chimney that divides the towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dětská věž
Through the center of the south face of the E tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Dětská věž
Up the center of the North face via 2 bolts directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dětská věž
To the left of the route "Scent of Resin", over the overhang past the 'clocks' directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dětská věž
Southwest edge to the summit of the E tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dětská věž
From the boulder at the SE edge of the E tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dětská věž
Up the wall directly below the rappel anchor to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž mládí
To the right of the Old Route, up the wall of a narrow pillar (bolt), higher up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věž mládí
Up the SW edge to a balcony and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dětská věž
To the left of the Old Route, up the chimney-like feature to the summit of the West Tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dětská věž
Up the North face via 2 rings to the summit of the West Tower. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž mládí
To the right in the SE face, up the wall over a bolt to a ledge and directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věž mládí
From the South up the chimney, higher up via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Věž mládí
From the North up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Nerozvážné mládí
Up the South face via 3 bolts directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
To the right of the Old Route, traverse to a crack and follow it to a ring. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
By the valley edge, higher up a crack to a ring and (building from the ring) diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
Up the right upland edge and crack, then higher left to the platform and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
On the left in the upper wall to a balcony and by a rib to a ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Aladinova stěnka
Up the middle of the valley (N) wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
To the left of the Path of Long Shadows, diagonally left up the wall to a ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sagusova hlava (Strážce Hrubozrného dolu)
From the start of the Old Route, climb the wall to a ledge and then left across a slab to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osecká věž
Up the right crack to the smooth step and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Osecká věž
Start as for the Černý orel (Black Eagle) route, then higher via the oblique cracks to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osecká věž
From the upland side to the smooth step, left (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Osecká věž
Up the small wall into the overhanging crack and over the ring up the wall (hourglass) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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